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If I thought Thursday's weather was bad, Friday’s was evenworse. At least on the previous morning we had some sunshine and I managed toget a fair bit done in the garden, although from mid-afternoon onward heavyrain put paid to any outdoor activities. With Friday forecast to be wet formost of the day, as well as several degrees colder, I decided the best thing todo was to get out of the house, leave Mrs PBT’s with the year-end tax returns,and all the other boring, financial stuff she has to do deal with and find apub somewhere.But where to go, especially on a day when the train drivers embarkon yet another strike? Of necessity my day out would have to be a bus trip, buteven then, it took a while to decide exactly where to go. Late last night, I finallysettled on the large and rather picturesque village of Goudhurst, situated onthe brow of a rather steep hill, in the heart of the Kentish Weald. The mainA262 road runs right through the centre of the village and then does a dog leg aroundthe churchyard, at the top of the hill. It's a road totally unsuited for largemotor vehicles, and I would possibly even include buses here, whilst large lorries,and anything articulated, should definitely steer well clear!
It's a route I have travelled dozens of times particularlyas it is the most direct route from Tonbridge to Ashford, the town where I grewup and where my parents lived until retiring up to Norfolk. The A262 isn't thequickest route, although it’s certainly much prettier and more attractive thanthe route via Hadlow, Kings Hill and M20 motorway. So having travelled through Goudhurston many previous occasions I thought it high time I stopped for a look around.The fact that there’s a free car-park, close to the village pond, which is justbefore the really steep section of the hill begins, means there was no realexcuse for not having stopped before.
Opposite the pond, is the Vine Inn, an attractive old, weatherboarded pub sited at the junction of two roads leading into the village. Until yesterday,it was the only pub in Goudhurst I had visited, but that was over 20 years ago,and I’m sorry to report that the Vine is currently closed, and up for sale. AlthoughI don’t know the reasons for its closure, I’m surprised that it’s shut, The pubI was making for though was the imposing, and rather striking, half-timbered Star& Eagle Hotel, situated on the right-hand side as you ascend the hill, justbefore the kink in the road, next to the churchyard. It's a pub with a veryupmarket appearance but after looking online I noticed it had some good reviews,so I thought I would give it a try.
I also wanted to take a look at Goudhurst’s attractivemediaeval church situated right on the brow of the hill. It’s said that thechurch tower affords some spectacular view out across the weald, but quiteunderstandably, the tower is only open to the public at weekends between Apriland October. There wouldn't have been much of a view on Friday anyway, given the low cloudsand rain that were blowing in from the west, but was still well worthwhile having alook around inside this lovely old church.
As mentioned above, with no trains running I caught the No.7bus from Tonbridge to Tunbridge Wells, although whatever possessed the buscompany to put a single deck bus on a route that is normally operated by doubledeck buses? Even worse was doing so on a day when no trains were running. Igathered from the crowd of people waiting at the bus stop in Tonbridge thatone bus had already been cancelled but somehow, when the bus eventually arrived,we all managed to squeeze on.
Unfortunately, the nearest available seat was next to a ratherlarge gentleman who not only took up part of my seat allocation, but also stankto high heaven! I hate to think the last time this person made contact with soapand water, but the smell emanating from him was overpowering. Perhaps thelittle old lady who’d got on after me, and to whom I offered my seat, had noticed the pongtoo since she declined my offer. A real shame, as I would gladly have stood allthe way to Tunbridge Wells just to get further away from this obnoxious individual.
Once we’d all squeezed our way off the bus in Tunbridge Wells, therewas time for a leisurely flat white plus a bacon roll from Greggs, beforewalking along to the bus stop to await the 297 Hams Travel service to Goudhurstand Tenterden. The bus turned up on time but with only me, plus a couple of otherpeople getting on, there were very few passengers on board, and most of whomgot off at nearby Pembury. It's a very pleasant journey through the Weald of Kent travelling through the attractive villages of Matfield, Benchley, and Horsmonden. I was onlyperson leaving the bus in Goudhurst, and as was getting off I asked the whereaboutsof the return bus stop. A passenger, who was getting on, told me it was back around thecorner, just passed the junction. He turned out to be the relief driver, as Idiscovered an hour and a half later, when he was driving the bus on its returnjourney to Tunbridge Wells.
A few steps up the hill from the bus stop was a rather nice-lookingbaker's. I'd already clocked the place on Google Street View, so I popped in andbought a cheese and tomato baguette, to eat later, whilst waiting for the busback. I knew from the website and from photos of the Star & Eagle on socialmedia, that the pub was rather upmarket, and that a simple item, like a cheeseroll, would either be non-existent, or cost an arm and a leg, so the localbaker’s made perfect sense.
With lunch settled for later, I crossed the road and headedoff up the hill. I walked around the church first, with this extensivegraveyard that extends across to the other side of a small lane where again therewould be some rather splendid views, but not on that particular Friday. AfterwardsI stuck my head inside the church and had a good look around. I half expectedsomeone to appear, asking whether I was in need of salvation, or just wanted topray, but as no one did, I had a nice look around, enjoying the peace and quietof this lovey old church.
Afterwards, I walked back down the hill for a quick look atthe pond, before retracing my steps up to the Star & Eagle. I was right inthinking the pub would posh, and whilst it was upmarket, in a nice sort of way,it very much reminded me of Rye. Thegeneral layout of the pub was the bar occupied the middle section of the building,with a restaurant leading off to the right. There were also a number of other roomsto the left. On sale at the bar, were Harvey’s Sussex Best, plus a coronation alefrom Brakspear’s. The latter company, appear to own the pub, and as with theGeorge & Dragon at Speldhurst, plus the Leicester Arms at Penshurst, they haveacquired some rather prestigious and historic pubs, in this part of Kent.
I took my pint of Sussex, plus bag of Piper’s Crisps – totalcost £7.10, so work that one out! and sat at a table, overlooking the rainsweptgarden at the rear of the pub. It was nice and cosy inside, but for a while, Iwas the only customer. Later on, a couple turned up, and ordered themselves ameal, sitting at a window at the front of the pub. I imagine, the unseasonablycold weather had put a stop to much of the passing trade that an attractive villagelike Goudhurst, normally attracts, but it’s also worth noting that the Star& Eagle has ten bedrooms, for those contemplating a longer stay. There isalso a reasonably-sized car-park at the rear of the pub, accessed by the appropriatelynamed Back Lane.
One rather fascinating aspect of the Star & Eagle, isthat it also owns the adjoining building, which formerly housed the Eight Bellspub. The latter always gave the impression of a far more basic and down toearth sort of place, which I’m sure it was. I'm not sure when it closed, as likethe Star & Eagle, it was a pub that I never managed to visit. However, as arather neat twist to this tale, the Eight Bells does open occasionally, forprivate hire events such as pop-ups, parties, and music events. As a formerpub, it still contains a bar, dart board and pool table, plus a large openfire. The Eight Bells is separated from the Star & Eagle, by a narrowpassage, at ground floor level.It would have been nice to see inside, although I imagine therewould have been various keys to find and security alarms to deactivate, and that’sassuming the two girls behind the bar had the authority to open the place upfor a casual onlooker, such as me, but it’s nice to learn that this former pubis still functioning, albeit in a somewhat limited capacity.
After leaving the pub, I crossed the road, walked down the hill,and found my way to the bus stop. I was glad of the shelter behind the stop, asI sat there enjoying the cheese baguette I’d bought earlier. I was the only passengeron the bus as far as Matfield and was glad at the progress the bus was making.There was a rather tight connection at Pembury Hospital, for the bus back toTonbridge, and we would probably have made it, if the driver hadn’t decided topull up outside a convenience store in Pembury village, to pick up some lunch!I can’t really begrudge him for that, but missing theconnection meant a 25-minute wait, in the freezing cold, for the next bus. I didtoy with the idea of nipping into the hospital reception area, and waitingthere, but hospitals aren’t the healthiest of places, so steeling myself againstthe cold I waited for the next 218 Arriva bus, to Tonbridge. Several bus routesinclude the hospital on their routes, so it does form a handy interchange thatavoids the need to travel in and out of Tunbridge Wells. Consequently, despitethe wait, I was back indoors by 2.30pm, glad that I had finally made the effortto experience a piece of Goudhurst for myself.

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