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Two strong and dark yokes from Romanian funsters Hop Hooligans today. The brewery was a highlight of my visit to Bucharest a few years back so it was a cheery reunion when they arrived in Dublin.

I enjoyed the Chupacabra spiced imperial stout back then so was well up for Imperial Chupacabra, even if it's only slightly stronger than the original at 9.5% ABV. Empires come cheap these days. Chocolate is still the main feature, occupying all of the aroma and a good portion of the foretaste. It's a tiny bit thin on that, given the strength: I would have liked some more heat from what must be a substantial malt base. Heat arrives a little later via the added chilli. This sparks late in the flavour, flaming the palate a little before setting the belly aglow after swallowing. It's a tingle more than a full burn and works beautifully with the dark malt characteristics. I like an assertive chilli stout and this hits the sweet spot just right.

Chilli is easy; beetroot is hard. The next beer is called Bloody Koschei, and check out that head! It's properly dramatic, being a deep blood red colour on top of the dense black body. The beer is an imperial stout at 11% ABV. It smells broadly vegetal, the sweetness all about those wintery roots. Sweetness of the malt kind dominates the flavour, all Parma Violets and caramel chews with a shot of espresso in the finish. The beetroot is nothing more than a savoury buzz running in parallel. While the previous beer was subtle about the alcohol, this one wears it loud and proud: it is hot, and gets a bit cloying as a result. Sticky chocolate sauce and real deep-purple beetroot bitterness team up in the flavour that's briefly fun but gets a little difficult before you're a few sips in. This doesn't have the cleansing sharpness of the previous beer. I deem it OK, but not brilliant and not fun. Damn you, beetroot!

It looks like Hop Hooligans are still as creative and quality-focused as ever. And if any other brewer wants to increase the variety of chilli stouts on the Irish market, I'll be very happy to assist in consuming them.

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