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Shut up about Barclay Perkins - Porter moves from brown to black
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Porter grists. A subject abnormally dear to my heart. More an illness more than an interest.
The period around the Napoleonic Wars was a key moment in the development of Porter. Specifically, the development of black malt. The new wonder colouring material that arrived in 1817. Its effect on Porter grists was pretty dramatic. As the table below demonstrates.
Before we go any further, a word of explanation. For the percentages in the table, I've assumed a quarter of pale or amber malt weighs 336 poiunds and that a quarter of brown or black malt weighs 244. I'm pretty certain that they were using volume quarters in this period and not standardised 336 pound quarters. I could be wrong, but that's the assumption I've made.
And these are what the beer names mean:
TT = standard Porter
EI = Export India (Porter)
BSt = Brown Stout
FSt = Family Stout (I think)
Here's the table:
Barclay Perkins beers 1812 - 1821
Date
Year
Beer
Style
OG
FG
ABV
App. Atten-uation
lbs hops/ qtr
hops lb/brl
barrels
lbs hops
qtrs malt
Pitch temp
pale malt
brown malt
black malt
amber malt
29th Apr
1812
BSt
Stout
16th Mar
1812
EI
Porter
23rd Mar
1812
EI
Porter
18th Mar
1812
FSt
Stout
21st Mar
1812
FSt
Stout
1st Apr
1812
FSt
Stout
20th Mar
1812
TT
Porter
25th Mar
1812
TT
Porter
26th Jun
1812
TT
Porter
6th Feb
1813
BSt
Stout
27th Mar
1813
BSt
Stout
5th Feb
1813
EI
Porter
30th Mar
1813
FSt
Stout
4th May
1813
TT
Porter
3rd Jan
1821
BSt
Stout
10th Jan
1821
BSt
Stout
17th Jan
1821
BSt
Stout
21st Mar
1821
EI
Porter
23rd Feb
1821
FSt
Stout
29th Jan
1821
S Ale
Small Ale
1st Jan
1821
TT
Porter
15th Jan
1821
TT
Porter
22nd Jan
1821
TT
Porter
25th May
1821
TT
Porter
Source:
Barclay Perkins brewing records held at the London Metropolitan archives.
In 1812 and 1813, Barclay Perkins Stouts and Export India Porter grists contained about 40% brown malt. Their bog-standard Porter (TT) contained about 30% brown malt. As this was a few year's before Wheeler's invention of the stuff, there's obviously no black malt in the grist.
In 1821, things are very different. The brown malt content of the Stouts had almost halved to 20-25%. The reduction was even more for the Porter: it contained just 11 to 15% brown malt.
A great example of how a technological innovation can transform the way a beer is brewed and its character.
More...
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