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I first visited Aulla, a Tuscan market town on the Parma-La Spezia railway line, in 2002. Since then it's enjoyed a period of growth, with a huge new station installed in a commercial district frustratingly far from the historic centre.Aulla was bombed heavily by the Americans in the war, and is now a stretched-out affair with wide roads and characterless late 20th century architecture. There

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