Fortunately Luton haven't got as low as the sub-Conference divisions yet. We played at Alfreton on Saturday for only the second time, but my first visit. Actually, "played" is probably not quite right, and even "turned up" has connotations of commitment that probably didn't apply to several of the Hatters on the pitch. Anyway, I was there.
I went in the Victoria near the ground, although the police had designated it a home fans only pub (I slipped in under the radar). Two real ales on, Flipside On Your Marks and Clarks Classic Blonde - kept a little on the cold side. Very nice pub, and friendly landlord. Just along the road is Bluey's (formerly Hudson Bay), which some friends of mine tried when we had a game here in April, and they said there were a couple of real ales on, although it's an "Aussie bar and bistro". In the town centre there were six real ales at the King Alfred, though the pub is a little too 'Spoons-like and impersonal for my taste. Nearby the Blue Bell only had Abbot. The Devonshire was a pleasant little pub with two Oakwell beers: Barnsley Bitter and the excellent Dark MILD. Just across the road was the Miners, which only had Pedigree, though this was in good condition and only £2.30 a pint (but served in plastic on "police instructions"). I didn't go in the Waggon & Horses (JD Wetherspoon).
I also had time before kick-off to meet some friends from Luton in South Normanton where we visited the excellent GBG-listed Devonshire Arms and the Clock. (Reviews of most of the above will follow in due course.)
So, all things considered, the beer drinking in Alfreton was a lot better than the football. (We lost 3-0 if you must know.)
The Eight Jolly Brewers in Gainsborough has been a destination pub for a number of years - I always include it in my Lincoln-and-back by train crawl. It's off the main shopping street, just around the corner from a Smith & Jones and a 'Spoons , but as far as I know that's about it for this small town.
Now if you really want to hear about poor real ale towns, how about Kyle of Lochalsh and its opposite number across the water on Skye, Kyleakin? Truly dire.