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23-09-2011, 18:10
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It’s getting easier then ever to buy and drink beer brewed to specific historical recipes and to get at least a sense of what beer tasted like before the 1970s.
Here’s a list of some notable beers which are recreations of specific beers based on recipes from the archives. We’ve also included a couple of beers which, although perhaps not exactly recreations, can help us understand specific aspects of the beer of the past.
1. Harvey’s Imperial Extra Double Stout (http://harveys.org.uk/bottledbeers.php#imperial) (9%, bottle)
It’s hard to work out if this is an accurate recreation of an historic recipe but, nonetheless, it is reckoned by some to be the best chance most of us will get to experience the sour Brettanomyces (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brettanomyces) character which would have been present in many 19th century beers. (As they say on Wikipedia, CITATION NEEDED.) It’s pretty intense; you might not even like it the first time you try it (we didn’t) but it’s well worth trying twice and is one of our favourites now (http://boakandbailey.com/2009/12/23/sour-stout-in-a-victorian-pub/).
2. Fuller’s Past Masters XX Strong Ale (http://www.fullers.co.uk/rte.asp?id=377) (7.5%, bottle)
Based on a recipe from 1891, some work went into this, including tracking down a specific variety of barley and then having it malted as it would have been at the end of the nineteenth century. Trying to understand styles gets our heads in a whirl but, as we understand it, this could be called a ‘burton’, a type of beer rarely found these days.
3. Fuller’s Past Masters Double Stout (http://www.fullers.co.uk/rte.asp?id=377) (7.4%, bottle)
This was brewed from an 1893 recipe and, despite the ‘double’ moniker, is interesting because it represents what you might have got if you’d ordered just a straight stout in a London pub at that time. Great to contrast with Fuller’s London Porter.
4. Westerham’s Audit Ale (http://www.westerhambrewery.co.uk/BlackEagleBrewery.htm) (bottle)
An occasional but award-winning product from this Kent brewery, Audit Ale is “brewed to the 1938 strength and using the same ingredients as the original best selling bottled beer of the Black Eagle Brewery”. We haven’t tried it, but we’d like to. Thanks to Ed (http://edsbeer.blogspot.com/) for tipping us off to this one.
5. Kernel’s historic range (http://thekernelbrewery.com/index.html) (bottle)
There are too many beers in this range to list them all. Each recreates a porter, stout or IPA from a specific year and, the brewer tells us on the Twitter, most are based on specific historical recipes. Kernel have also collaborated with Thornbridge on a burton for this year’s Borefts festival (http://thornbridge.wordpress.com/2011/09/05/kernelburtondemolen/). Again, we haven’t tried any of these, but others have (http://beer.bobarnott.com/tag/the-kernel/).
6. Worthington (http://www.worthingtonswhiteshield.com/frontpage.html) E (4.8%, bottle)
A sullied name because it was applied to a Worthington keg beer in the 1970s and 80s (http://youtu.be/FYxMbTAC_lc) but, we are told, this is brewed to the 1965 recipe for Bass Pale Ale. Again, we haven’t tried it, but Zak has (http://thebeerboy.blogspot.com/2010/06/ill-have-e-please-bob.html). Thank to the Beer Nut (http://thebeernut.blogspot.com/) for the tip on this one.
7. Harvey’s (http://www.harveys.org.uk/index.php) Ration Ale (2.7%, cask)
We’ve only seen it for sale once (http://boakandbailey.com/2011/05/17/london-institutions-the-wenlock/) and they don’t mention it on their website but this is a recreation of a beer brewed during World War II when raw materials were scarce and beers got very weak. From what we’ve seen in Ron’s tables, only milds generally got down this low, but the point is made. We expect to see it crop up again now there are tax breaks for beers at this strength.
8. Greene King Suffolk Strong (http://www.greeneking.co.uk/index.asp?pageid=75) (6%)
This strong beer is interesting because, as many beers at point of sale would once have been, a mix of ‘stale’ beer matured in wooden vats (Greene King’s 5X, which they don’t sell) with a younger, ‘milder’ beer.
9. Sarah Hughes Dark Ruby Mild (http://www.sarahhughesbrewery.co.uk/regular_ales.html) (6%, bottle/cask)
According to the brewers, this is a strong mild brewed to a pre-World War I recipe. We’ve never tried it but everyone (http://real-ale.blogspot.com/2011/06/sarah-hughes-dark-ruby-is-rare-example.html) else (http://www.funf-media.co.uk/beerbeauty/index.php/2010/10/06/any-dark-ruby-mild-fans-out-there/) in the entire world (http://barclayperkins.blogspot.com/2011/09/black-country-part-three.html) has (http://desdemoor.co.uk/sarah-hughes-dark-ruby/).* The idea that milds are weak, sub-4% beers is quite a modern idea (http://barclayperkins.blogspot.com/2008/05/mild-but-not-meek.html) after all. (With thanks to Graeme Coates (http://www.chromosphere.co.uk/) for reminding us of this one.)
10. Courage Imperial Stout (tbc)
The word on the street (actually Ed’s blog again (http://edsbeer.blogspot.com/2011/09/brewing-history-in-london.html)) is that Wells and Youngs are planning to revive Courage Imperial Stout. Which recipe will they use? Who knows.
Need we say (again) that we think this kind of thing is fascinating and that we’d like to see more breweries give it a go?
Of course, the main reason for this post is to keep everyone busy correcting us and adding to the list while we’re away in Spain for a fortnight. Hasta luego!


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