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09-12-2023, 17:00
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As promised here is the write-up about the “missing”Macclesfield pub – the one I saved until last. As well as writing about thetown’s Jolly Sailor, I was also going to describe the trials and tribulations Iendured in getting to Macclesfield, a process that was far more challenging onthe homeward journey but have decided against this. Leaving out the gory detailsof cancelled, non-running or delayed trains, what my day on the rails didexpose was the fragility of the UK’s rail system, and the knock-on effects thatoccur, when something goes wrong.
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We have seen record investment in the nation’s railwayssince the bad old days of the Thatcher government, when there was serious talkof adopting one of the more crack-pot ideas proposed by the 1983 SerpellReport. This seriously suggested slashing the UK’s rail network to just 1,630 miles of track, and I recall an even more ludicrous proposal to concrete over many commuter lines, and replace them with guided bus-ways - like that's ever worked!

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Billed as the second Beeching Report, Serpell’srecommendations were quietly dropped and shunted into the sidings, in the run up to ageneral election. Fortunately, since then, successive governments haverealised the value to the nation of a modern and efficient rail system,although the botched privatisation of British Rail by the government of JohnMajor, did see a significant amount of the investment being syphoned off bynon-contributory, private companies.
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Leaving aside the inadequacies imposed by Major’s fragmentedsystem, and looking back at the days when British Rail was a national joke (avery unfair accusation given the restraints BR was operating under), today’srailway would be totally unrecognisable to a traveller from the 1980’s, particularlywhen it comes to the appearance, comfort and overall high design standards ofthe modern rolling stock which runs over the tracks as we approach the second quarterof the 21st century.
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The major problem seems one of overcrowding, An issue that affectsthe northern half of the country, more than the south, and I saw this for myselflast Tuesday, when I somehow managed to squeeze myself onto the late running, Cross Country trains connection from Stafford toMacclesfield. The train was already rammed when it pulled into Stafford,meaning myself, plus a dozen or so other passengers had to stand squeezed intonarrow vestibule, at the end of carriage next to the toilet. Fortunately, it wasonly 30 minutes’ worth of discomfort, but was still not a pleasant experience.Returning to the main event, which was the third pub (forme), on our tour of Macclesfield. I’dheard good things about the town’s Jolly Sailor, and in particular itswell-kept Draught Bass. As you might be aware from previous “Proper Days Out,”such as Burton and Bath in particular, the legendary cask ale that is DraughtBass, and the one which big-meany, global brewer, In-Bev keeps trying to killoff, is making something of a comeback. Local Bass connoisseur, Ian Thurman, a fellowblogger who I had the pleasure of meeting 3 ½ years ago in Burton-on-Trent(the original home of Bass), has compiled and maintains the Draught Bass Pub Directory (https://www.derbytelegraph.co.uk/whats-on/food-drink/quiet-campaign-raising-profile-legendary-3802976), which lists all known stockists of this legendary beer.

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Ian’s directory might well be a labour of love, but it’salso an invaluable tool for locating outlets where drinkers can obtain a pintof Bass. The directory is six pages long, and as might be expected, themajority of the pubs stocking it are in the midlands, with counties such asDerbyshire, Leicestershire and Staffordshire leading the way. Other areas thathave historically been Bass strongholds, such as the West Country, parts ofWales, Manchester, and Greater London, also feature prominently, but sadly, myhome county of Kent now only has one regular outlet, in the form of the Miners’Arms, Dunton Green, near Sevenoaks.
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Draught Bass is available in two Macclesfield pubs, theWaters Green Tavern being the second outlet. The availability of reduced-price railtickets, plus the aforementioned delays, meant I was unable to make the middaystarting time at this pub, so it will have to wait for another day, but theJolly Sailor (https://www.thejollysailor-macc.co.uk/) was well and truly open when our group called in, after our brief visitto the Queens. Described by What Pub, as “a much-improved cosy town centre pubrenowned for one of the best pints of Bass around,” the Jolly Sailor is essentiallyan open plan, single room pub, which is divided into four distinct areas. Sixhand-pumps can be found on the central bar serving two permanent beers, one of whichis Bass, and up to four guests.
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Comfy sofas, intermingled with more traditional seating plusa roaring log fire, combine to create that increasing rarity, a traditionaltown boozer. The pub is located in the heart of Macclesfield and is only a fewminutes walking distance from both the train and bus stations. The open fire, surroundedby comfy chairs, where customers can warm themselves on a cold winters day, is quiterightly, the most popular place in the pub, and our party of five was lucky tohave bagged that spot. I thought I detected a few words of disappointment froma group of punters who came in a short time after us. So, with pints all round,of top-quality Draught Bass all round, plus that welcoming open fire, the JollySailor was definitely one of the highlights of Tuesday’s visit.
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It was getting dark by the time we left the pub, and as youwill be aware from the previous articles, there were two further pubs left tovisit. The Silk Trader, in particular was disappointing, and compared against theJolly Sailor and the Castle, the Wharf wasn’t a lot better. It was whilst inthe latter that I discovered the distribution to rail services, which couldpotentially affect my journey home. This came after checking live train departureson the National Rail website, so I decided it would be prudent to make my wayback to the station.
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The Cross-Country train from Macclesfield was fine, thistime around, and it wasn’t until I alighted at Stafford that the fun started. BothWest Midlands services I could have used were cancelled, nut fortunately, anAvanti staff member, present on the platform informed me that I could use one oftheir trains, and advised me which would be the most direct. He also assured memy ticket would be valid on Avanti trains, in view of the West Midlandscancellations. There was also disruption heading in a different direction, so stationstaff has laid on a replacement bus service, for travellers heading that way. Full marks then to the Avanti staff, and full marks to fortheir fast, comfortable, and not overly crowded that transported me back toEuston. I had known in advance that rail travel might be somewhat hit and miss thatTuesday, as although the south east of the country was not directly affected bythe ongoing, rolling strikes by ASLEF train drivers, there was an ongoing banon overtime and rest day working. As it happened, there was some disruption, butthings still worked out OK, and after an uneventful cross-London tube journeyto Charing Cross, I was on the train back to Tonbridge shortly after 10pm.
So, despite a few travel hiccups on the travel front, and notmanaging to track down some Old Tom, Tuesday’s "Proper Day Out" in Macclesfieldcertainly live up to expectations. It was good too, to catch up with what iseffectively the northern contingent of the Beer & Pubs Forum, and to enjoy theircompany as we experienced several classic, town pubs.
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