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10-11-2023, 18:11
Visit the Paul Bailey's Beer Blog site (https://baileysbeerblog.blogspot.com/2023/11/dortmunder-almost-vanished-beer-style.html)
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When I first started taking an interest in beer there wasvery little information available on the subject. Unlike wine, where thereseemed an abundance of material on viticulture, books on beer and brewing were fewand far between. Beer was definitely regarded as the poor man's drink, butfortunately, things began to change, and it was during my first year atuniversity, that I received wind of an innovative and groundbreaking bookcalled “The Beer Drinker’s Companion,” by Frank Baillie. Frank was a man aheadof this time, and this hard-back publication, which appeared in 1973, was oneof the first books on beer to appear and was the first one dedicated solely tothe greatest long drink in the world.According to the notes on the dust jacket, Frank assiduouslyresearched his subject, had drunk all the draught beers listed in the book, andhad drank beer in 36 different countries. The book itself listed every brewingcompany then in existence in the UK, gave details of all the beers produced byeach of these breweries, and provided guidance that enabled readers to findpubs, where their beers could be enjoyed. In short, Frank’s pioneering workbroke the mould and helped demystify the world of beer, malt, and hops, certainlyfor this 19-year-old student.
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-S3A3bWG_OcHHlraMdXDStmbRhcrfCeyqHFwBsZKBEPlzUJGDka 4BnFkJ1v6KmrAJ67q0WQ0GGFUumRLKvU25HttbdMvEQ4ufrTFZ OnZzmdA3b-PREmurzKckWg4RIVBsix4cnjoPbyRWy1ocPxe4z3zfmPnu1lVU zDwRh2HKsomS4KMSt179Y_aMUmI/w260-h400/Beer%20Drinkers%20Companion0001.jpg (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-S3A3bWG_OcHHlraMdXDStmbRhcrfCeyqHFwBsZKBEPlzUJGDka 4BnFkJ1v6KmrAJ67q0WQ0GGFUumRLKvU25HttbdMvEQ4ufrTFZ OnZzmdA3b-PREmurzKckWg4RIVBsix4cnjoPbyRWy1ocPxe4z3zfmPnu1lVU zDwRh2HKsomS4KMSt179Y_aMUmI/s1510/Beer%20Drinkers%20Companion0001.jpg)
One thing I remember from Frank's book, and one that isparticularly relevant to this current post, is a short section about lager.This was a beer I knew little about, especially as I'd only come across lager whenit was served mixed with lime cordial. To a rather naive young drinker, thisblonde coloured beer looked very attractive in the glass, as the bubbles slowlyrose to the top, adding to the cap of foam on top of the beer, but why on earthshove a shot of lime cordial in it?The only lagers I was familiar with at the time, were Harp,Skol and Heineken, so The Beer Drinker’s Companion was something of arevelation. Frank didn't go into a lot of detail, primarily because the beersbrewed in these islands were the main focus of his book, but I do rememberreading a definition of lager, how it differed from traditional English beer,and how it was by far the most popular beer in continental Europe. There wasalso quite an emphasis on lager being brewed using seedless hops, rather than highlightingbottom fermentation, and a grist consisting of lightly kilned malt - the pointsthat really differentiate lager from English ale.
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjgC3gFameFrLbIKKS49i40eKBVEH-Lbgxyh-sUY6kYoPa7xIytcVLlrtv87mq24y2DJPWCl291mUV-92ywnJ2FuXDFx6wItqJ-0_LqwjdTPwRA3bA9mOdiADnlYdlzYC4I4xQ2TmdoOCIGIxrccz DVngdnQNAVV0ArhquMRjOAbPSVlMjzru3hLLW8rs/w320-h320/Logo_dab_dortmund.jpg (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjgC3gFameFrLbIKKS49i40eKBVEH-Lbgxyh-sUY6kYoPa7xIytcVLlrtv87mq24y2DJPWCl291mUV-92ywnJ2FuXDFx6wItqJ-0_LqwjdTPwRA3bA9mOdiADnlYdlzYC4I4xQ2TmdoOCIGIxrccz DVngdnQNAVV0ArhquMRjOAbPSVlMjzru3hLLW8rs/s220/Logo_dab_dortmund.jpg)
Frank went on to say there were three main types of lager: PilsnerDortmund and Munich. He described Pilsner as being pale in colour, with arelatively high hop rate and brewed with soft water. Dortmund was also pale, butbrewed using less hops, and harder water. Munich was a brown and aromatic typeof beer, brewed using different malts, compared to the other two types oflager, giving it a fuller and sweeter pallet. He was obviously referring to theDunkel style beers which originated in Munich, and which are still popular in theBavarian capital today.
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvlDGPellQdFOD9Mjh7cERcVu7qTzR_oty8RtRjS5lpe SDuqJH5ij-Y8rBXXk8kE4cKKP7j5LVoFiEgJueyCvWt0a7CO6l7xQ3ggLXES tVrMG3jySRoviJIBfiiDC9ClT3ge-akpriXHC5B7qo1ezuIZmb9mOuAUZPhEod69_MGM0oSpGJneaB2 FTRZhw/w330-h400/2017-1201-Dortmunder-Gold-Lager-Packaging-2018.jpg (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvlDGPellQdFOD9Mjh7cERcVu7qTzR_oty8RtRjS5lpe SDuqJH5ij-Y8rBXXk8kE4cKKP7j5LVoFiEgJueyCvWt0a7CO6l7xQ3ggLXES tVrMG3jySRoviJIBfiiDC9ClT3ge-akpriXHC5B7qo1ezuIZmb9mOuAUZPhEod69_MGM0oSpGJneaB2 FTRZhw/s477/2017-1201-Dortmunder-Gold-Lager-Packaging-2018.jpg)
Over the years I’ve drunk lager-style beers in numerousparts of the world, as well as on home turf. The vast majority have been on thepale side and have included Pilsners by the score – and even Pilsner in the city of Pilsenitself. Some lagers have been Bavarian-style Helles, Franconian Kellerbiers,and some have been the aforementioned Dunkel, dark beers, alongside their Czechequivalents. The one lager style I’ve never managed to track down, apart froman example from Cleveland - based Great Lakes Brewing Co, is Dortmunder. Until the otherday, that is, when I finally got to enjoy a Dortmunder beer, from the city thatgave its name to the style which Frank Baillie regarded as the third type oflager.Before revealing the beer and the location where I got todrink (and enjoy) a genuine Dortmunder beer, there’s another groundbreakingbeer book that I want to mention, and it’s one which arguably had even moreinfluence on beer lovers (and beer hunters). Published in 1977 and researched and written bythe late, great Michael Jackson, (https://cohops.se/who-was-michael-the-beer-hunter-jackson/) “The World Guide to Beer,” was THE definitiveguide to beer, the world over, and an indispensable reference book for anyoneremotely interested in beer.
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Dortmunder beer receives several mentions, as does the city itself, withJackson describing it as Germany’s biggest brewing city. Dortmunderthough, is a relatively new style of beer, having been first brewed by Dortmunder Union in 1873. This lightgolden beer became very popular with coal miners and workers in the area’s steelworks,and other industrial undertakings, leading to Dortmunder Union becomingGermany’s largest brewery. Dortmunder beer has beendescribed as a lager produced for 19thCentury German industrial workers, and it proved ideal for this purpose. High levels of sulphate inthe region’s water gave the beer a distinct flavour that balances well with thebitterness from the hops. Dortmunder beer was never brewed to less than 5% abv,which was light enough to quench a coal miner’s thirst, but hearty enough toreward him for a long day of manual labour. As the steel and coal industrygradually diminished in West Germany, so did the production of Dortmunderlagers.
The beer is sometimes referred to today, as “DortmunderExport,” but whatever the name, the style has the malt-forward flavour andsweetness of a German-style Helles, with the bitter base of a German-stylePilsener. The beer is all about balance, with medium hop character and a firmbut low malt sweetness, so look for toasted malt flavours and spicy floral hoparomas. Mostpeople would say that the taste of a Dortmunder mirrors the crispness andlightness of a Helles, but with a stronger, more malty taste and a higher abv.
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiND_rbcBiK-Zisvg_l6NfZMC3zMjw3Vx_zxRdDS0yuhWtFUNdsg4PBfMOrB9E G4F18EwZ52WelkyxPMs8xFdM-CyhBvUTr6SxO8-4XuIxLKkOV56kB2YwbSf3YqivQ2WN-XTgpY0Sv7Ws9eReohD5qmKiKYNDCB6WkCnfkrb0YO5yIaGnOTm syqiz9bzA/w400-h296/Wuppertal%20Brauhaus%20Ext.jpg (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiND_rbcBiK-Zisvg_l6NfZMC3zMjw3Vx_zxRdDS0yuhWtFUNdsg4PBfMOrB9E G4F18EwZ52WelkyxPMs8xFdM-CyhBvUTr6SxO8-4XuIxLKkOV56kB2YwbSf3YqivQ2WN-XTgpY0Sv7Ws9eReohD5qmKiKYNDCB6WkCnfkrb0YO5yIaGnOTm syqiz9bzA/s4051/Wuppertal%20Brauhaus%20Ext.jpg)
So why isn’t Dortmunder morewidely known, and why haven’t I come across it on my travels? I haven’t been toDortmund, but I have been quite close to the city, following visits to Solingenand Wuppertal. There was no sign of Dortmunder beer in either of theselocations, and the only place where I have seen the beer advertised, was at Gaststätte Lommerzheim (Lommi (https://baileysbeerblog.blogspot.com/2023/03/gaststatte-lommerzheim-cologne-classic.html)) (https://baileysbeerblog.blogspot.com/2023/03/gaststatte-lommerzheim-cologne-classic.html), the legendary Cologne BierHaus, on the wrong side of the River Rhine, that I finally managed to visitback in March. A largesign, on the front of the pub, advertises Dortmunder AktienBier (DAB), even though Lommi only sells Kölsch. Boak & Bailey mentionedthis anomaly in their recent “Impressions of Köln” (https://boakandbailey.com/2023/11/impressions-of-koln-expansion-pack/)post, but the presence ofthis sign, on a pub which is a rare, pre-war survivor from the indiscriminatecarpet bombing of the last war, does suggest Dortmunder beer was at one time,more widely available than it is today, in Germany. Finally,we have reached the point in the post where I reveal when and where I was finallyable to drink a glass of genuine Dortmunder beer.
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjshLdEAvdZOCrpGhwU-K8gieEXcBZVZCI6cM1Vl3ZCinLq7eNQTOiJpVpNA-8_CnDKhbdY1HqqhyphenhyphenVYej4b92YgDItjrWiA0ipP_G 33bP1faslCSvAGfYYztgkbft6H-cs8G9MbZInPCZiq1NRidS03x2WxMbo-tau_5BC8v_NItlmp6GT_b-gankBoxW0/w400-h346/Nelson%20side%20view.jpg (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjshLdEAvdZOCrpGhwU-K8gieEXcBZVZCI6cM1Vl3ZCinLq7eNQTOiJpVpNA-8_CnDKhbdY1HqqhyphenhyphenVYej4b92YgDItjrWiA0ipP_G 33bP1faslCSvAGfYYztgkbft6H-cs8G9MbZInPCZiq1NRidS03x2WxMbo-tau_5BC8v_NItlmp6GT_b-gankBoxW0/s3400/Nelson%20side%20view.jpg)
Two days after arriving back in England, following ourcruise, I called in at the Nelson Arms in Tonbridge, craving a glass of two of Englishale. Those cravings were satisfied by a pint of Shere Drop, from Surrey HillsBrewery, followed by one of Gale’s HSB, but whilst propping up the bar (it wasvery crowded that day), I noticed quite a few glasses of Dortmunder Union beerbeing served. I had to ask the barmaid, as the keg beers at the Nelsonaren’t that well-advertised, coming as they do from the “beer wall” behind the bar.She confirmed my observation was correct and told me the pub had only recentlystarted stocking the beer. It had proved a big hit with the locals, so much sothat it is now a regular feature on the beer wall. There wasn’t time, there andthen for me to try the beer, but I made the decision to have a pint ofDortmunder, the next time I was in the Nelson.
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJIQR9xl5zCZj3Tb1uUqlfrOWQTNnlybg0tlQQ42TSqx ngrvkFR8LEbt7ovoPAcYQeXpP5a4g8eB_8hgrzJzE770g4JuSn Kz9y-h3md1hefyJSVf9q1-WsrSY8aq-OaJeEiZAt_HFJrRUoE9FdWw5S0nGzXvzoDpQ_MTmzpHMU-Ko8xjivhwu5ATdacrE/w225-h400/Nelson%20Certificate.jpg (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJIQR9xl5zCZj3Tb1uUqlfrOWQTNnlybg0tlQQ42TSqx ngrvkFR8LEbt7ovoPAcYQeXpP5a4g8eB_8hgrzJzE770g4JuSn Kz9y-h3md1hefyJSVf9q1-WsrSY8aq-OaJeEiZAt_HFJrRUoE9FdWw5S0nGzXvzoDpQ_MTmzpHMU-Ko8xjivhwu5ATdacrE/s4000/Nelson%20Certificate.jpg)
That time came quicker than I thought, as the otherWednesday, I found myself in the pub, as part of the local CAMRA group, whowere presenting the Nelson’s licensees with a certificate, to mark the pub reachingthe final stage of this year’s CAMRA Pub of the Year. Yes, the Nelson is one ofthe four finalists in this year's competition, and deservedly so! After enjoying a couple of Harvey’s beers – Dark Mild andBonfire Boy (the latter was excellent), I just had to finish the session with apint of Dortmunder. My purchase turned afew heads amongst the CAMRA crowd, although when I explained my decision, I’msure they understood the reasoning behind it. Matt the landlord confirmed thatit was the genuine article and is obtained via a wholesaler. Quite a few of thepub’s regulars have taken to the beer, and it is now stocked at the Nelson,instead of Paulaner Helles from Munich.
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuf5Orjyd2M67sKyQk7V1DZ8kg9QuQ1nHF5jzpXMlNp3 01tD6MpVVTWwx3DM1ne9yuW6pgPFbovBTHPQrkZQr4rt5NJYWC Q-xIZ6TzgUcxzubnGM2OMNYAGXDZ1zObaXEY5FBkO7KAmcFycloV 75GlExxGLxSLbP2i5pPFj2nFeex56YjdikhfSxjrv-c/w225-h400/Dortmunder%20beer.jpg (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuf5Orjyd2M67sKyQk7V1DZ8kg9QuQ1nHF5jzpXMlNp3 01tD6MpVVTWwx3DM1ne9yuW6pgPFbovBTHPQrkZQr4rt5NJYWC Q-xIZ6TzgUcxzubnGM2OMNYAGXDZ1zObaXEY5FBkO7KAmcFycloV 75GlExxGLxSLbP2i5pPFj2nFeex56YjdikhfSxjrv-c/s3969/Dortmunder%20beer.jpg)
It was a decent pint of lager, although it was nothingspectacular, and there’s the rub, because it’s almost certainly the reason forDortmunder’s demise. With no real outstanding features, there’s nothing really to distinguish the style from other lagers (https://www.bierdame.com/dortmund/), such as Pilsner or Helles. Esteemedbeer writer Roger Protz reached the same conclusion, in this piece from 2004. (https://protzonbeer.co.uk/features/2004/04/01/dortmund-the-burton-of-germany) Healso made comparisons between Dortmund and Burton-on-Trent; a point that alsocrossed my mind – although I was thinking more of the high sulphate local water,which is a common connection between both towns.Roger’s final point was one that seems to have come to pass.He describes Dortmunder, as one of the world's great beer styles, before claimingit is in danger of withering on the vine. I’m not sure about his first point, becauseas stated above, I found little evidence in the pint I drank to confirm thatclaim. Sadly, Roger is almost certainly correct about Dortmunder withering onthe vine, and unless the brewers of its home city make a concerted effort topromote the beer, and really get behind it, this once renowned style of beer,really is in danger of disappearing for good.
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https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj86_42KQPloz6Wmv2Crt48NeEkONk10Ve0mkfNiDEovA _Z2i1_1XkLOVseIaWsAzFp3xP6vDYoRdoUSdXq4bhQ_szmbmgw U6W1d535A6hLuX_8udS10-PlLnd8GX7VNu-hCAJah7kHBT3aN3phbTOh-VK1qqQaKZ7OqlzAGLpqnuQ-h1nFT8-iG1399Rw/w315-h400/Dortmunder%20Union%20Original.jpg (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj86_42KQPloz6Wmv2Crt48NeEkONk10Ve0mkfNiDEovA _Z2i1_1XkLOVseIaWsAzFp3xP6vDYoRdoUSdXq4bhQ_szmbmgw U6W1d535A6hLuX_8udS10-PlLnd8GX7VNu-hCAJah7kHBT3aN3phbTOh-VK1qqQaKZ7OqlzAGLpqnuQ-h1nFT8-iG1399Rw/s715/Dortmunder%20Union%20Original.jpg)
When I first started taking an interest in beer there wasvery little information available on the subject. Unlike wine, where thereseemed an abundance of material on viticulture, books on beer and brewing were fewand far between. Beer was definitely regarded as the poor man's drink, butfortunately, things began to change, and it was during my first year atuniversity, that I received wind of an innovative and groundbreaking bookcalled “The Beer Drinker’s Companion,” by Frank Baillie. Frank was a man aheadof this time, and this hard-back publication, which appeared in 1973, was oneof the first books on beer to appear and was the first one dedicated solely tothe greatest long drink in the world.According to the notes on the dust jacket, Frank assiduouslyresearched his subject, had drunk all the draught beers listed in the book, andhad drank beer in 36 different countries. The book itself listed every brewingcompany then in existence in the UK, gave details of all the beers produced byeach of these breweries, and provided guidance that enabled readers to findpubs, where their beers could be enjoyed. In short, Frank’s pioneering workbroke the mould and helped demystify the world of beer, malt, and hops, certainlyfor this 19-year-old student.
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-S3A3bWG_OcHHlraMdXDStmbRhcrfCeyqHFwBsZKBEPlzUJGDka 4BnFkJ1v6KmrAJ67q0WQ0GGFUumRLKvU25HttbdMvEQ4ufrTFZ OnZzmdA3b-PREmurzKckWg4RIVBsix4cnjoPbyRWy1ocPxe4z3zfmPnu1lVU zDwRh2HKsomS4KMSt179Y_aMUmI/w260-h400/Beer%20Drinkers%20Companion0001.jpg (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-S3A3bWG_OcHHlraMdXDStmbRhcrfCeyqHFwBsZKBEPlzUJGDka 4BnFkJ1v6KmrAJ67q0WQ0GGFUumRLKvU25HttbdMvEQ4ufrTFZ OnZzmdA3b-PREmurzKckWg4RIVBsix4cnjoPbyRWy1ocPxe4z3zfmPnu1lVU zDwRh2HKsomS4KMSt179Y_aMUmI/s1510/Beer%20Drinkers%20Companion0001.jpg)
One thing I remember from Frank's book, and one that isparticularly relevant to this current post, is a short section about lager.This was a beer I knew little about, especially as I'd only come across lager whenit was served mixed with lime cordial. To a rather naive young drinker, thisblonde coloured beer looked very attractive in the glass, as the bubbles slowlyrose to the top, adding to the cap of foam on top of the beer, but why on earthshove a shot of lime cordial in it?The only lagers I was familiar with at the time, were Harp,Skol and Heineken, so The Beer Drinker’s Companion was something of arevelation. Frank didn't go into a lot of detail, primarily because the beersbrewed in these islands were the main focus of his book, but I do rememberreading a definition of lager, how it differed from traditional English beer,and how it was by far the most popular beer in continental Europe. There wasalso quite an emphasis on lager being brewed using seedless hops, rather than highlightingbottom fermentation, and a grist consisting of lightly kilned malt - the pointsthat really differentiate lager from English ale.
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjgC3gFameFrLbIKKS49i40eKBVEH-Lbgxyh-sUY6kYoPa7xIytcVLlrtv87mq24y2DJPWCl291mUV-92ywnJ2FuXDFx6wItqJ-0_LqwjdTPwRA3bA9mOdiADnlYdlzYC4I4xQ2TmdoOCIGIxrccz DVngdnQNAVV0ArhquMRjOAbPSVlMjzru3hLLW8rs/w320-h320/Logo_dab_dortmund.jpg (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjgC3gFameFrLbIKKS49i40eKBVEH-Lbgxyh-sUY6kYoPa7xIytcVLlrtv87mq24y2DJPWCl291mUV-92ywnJ2FuXDFx6wItqJ-0_LqwjdTPwRA3bA9mOdiADnlYdlzYC4I4xQ2TmdoOCIGIxrccz DVngdnQNAVV0ArhquMRjOAbPSVlMjzru3hLLW8rs/s220/Logo_dab_dortmund.jpg)
Frank went on to say there were three main types of lager: PilsnerDortmund and Munich. He described Pilsner as being pale in colour, with arelatively high hop rate and brewed with soft water. Dortmund was also pale, butbrewed using less hops, and harder water. Munich was a brown and aromatic typeof beer, brewed using different malts, compared to the other two types oflager, giving it a fuller and sweeter pallet. He was obviously referring to theDunkel style beers which originated in Munich, and which are still popular in theBavarian capital today.
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvlDGPellQdFOD9Mjh7cERcVu7qTzR_oty8RtRjS5lpe SDuqJH5ij-Y8rBXXk8kE4cKKP7j5LVoFiEgJueyCvWt0a7CO6l7xQ3ggLXES tVrMG3jySRoviJIBfiiDC9ClT3ge-akpriXHC5B7qo1ezuIZmb9mOuAUZPhEod69_MGM0oSpGJneaB2 FTRZhw/w330-h400/2017-1201-Dortmunder-Gold-Lager-Packaging-2018.jpg (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvlDGPellQdFOD9Mjh7cERcVu7qTzR_oty8RtRjS5lpe SDuqJH5ij-Y8rBXXk8kE4cKKP7j5LVoFiEgJueyCvWt0a7CO6l7xQ3ggLXES tVrMG3jySRoviJIBfiiDC9ClT3ge-akpriXHC5B7qo1ezuIZmb9mOuAUZPhEod69_MGM0oSpGJneaB2 FTRZhw/s477/2017-1201-Dortmunder-Gold-Lager-Packaging-2018.jpg)
Over the years I’ve drunk lager-style beers in numerousparts of the world, as well as on home turf. The vast majority have been on thepale side and have included Pilsners by the score – and even Pilsner in the city of Pilsenitself. Some lagers have been Bavarian-style Helles, Franconian Kellerbiers,and some have been the aforementioned Dunkel, dark beers, alongside their Czechequivalents. The one lager style I’ve never managed to track down, apart froman example from Cleveland - based Great Lakes Brewing Co, is Dortmunder. Until the otherday, that is, when I finally got to enjoy a Dortmunder beer, from the city thatgave its name to the style which Frank Baillie regarded as the third type oflager.Before revealing the beer and the location where I got todrink (and enjoy) a genuine Dortmunder beer, there’s another groundbreakingbeer book that I want to mention, and it’s one which arguably had even moreinfluence on beer lovers (and beer hunters). Published in 1977 and researched and written bythe late, great Michael Jackson, (https://cohops.se/who-was-michael-the-beer-hunter-jackson/) “The World Guide to Beer,” was THE definitiveguide to beer, the world over, and an indispensable reference book for anyoneremotely interested in beer.
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4hkks6qPY-3FcoLl9rDjt7x6nKkve5WsenNw3_wPbyha8s0_TK3i-8hpp-y39E9iftV2feyWFg0teLXmyRMvNipzjda7YZ1aRELcPTCWKmuB aHyIijThg8YpwAdm5P5dQkSoAVyR-No-7S5mA3WRHP4aIapkWsAAnurVcZ5OMbgx8hpODhiqYk17xbGg/w298-h400/World%20Guide%20to%20Beer.jpg (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4hkks6qPY-3FcoLl9rDjt7x6nKkve5WsenNw3_wPbyha8s0_TK3i-8hpp-y39E9iftV2feyWFg0teLXmyRMvNipzjda7YZ1aRELcPTCWKmuB aHyIijThg8YpwAdm5P5dQkSoAVyR-No-7S5mA3WRHP4aIapkWsAAnurVcZ5OMbgx8hpODhiqYk17xbGg/s2801/World%20Guide%20to%20Beer.jpg)
Dortmunder beer receives several mentions, as does the city itself, withJackson describing it as Germany’s biggest brewing city. Dortmunderthough, is a relatively new style of beer, having been first brewed by Dortmunder Union in 1873. This lightgolden beer became very popular with coal miners and workers in the area’s steelworks,and other industrial undertakings, leading to Dortmunder Union becomingGermany’s largest brewery. Dortmunder beer has beendescribed as a lager produced for 19thCentury German industrial workers, and it proved ideal for this purpose. High levels of sulphate inthe region’s water gave the beer a distinct flavour that balances well with thebitterness from the hops. Dortmunder beer was never brewed to less than 5% abv,which was light enough to quench a coal miner’s thirst, but hearty enough toreward him for a long day of manual labour. As the steel and coal industrygradually diminished in West Germany, so did the production of Dortmunderlagers.
The beer is sometimes referred to today, as “DortmunderExport,” but whatever the name, the style has the malt-forward flavour andsweetness of a German-style Helles, with the bitter base of a German-stylePilsener. The beer is all about balance, with medium hop character and a firmbut low malt sweetness, so look for toasted malt flavours and spicy floral hoparomas. Mostpeople would say that the taste of a Dortmunder mirrors the crispness andlightness of a Helles, but with a stronger, more malty taste and a higher abv.
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiND_rbcBiK-Zisvg_l6NfZMC3zMjw3Vx_zxRdDS0yuhWtFUNdsg4PBfMOrB9E G4F18EwZ52WelkyxPMs8xFdM-CyhBvUTr6SxO8-4XuIxLKkOV56kB2YwbSf3YqivQ2WN-XTgpY0Sv7Ws9eReohD5qmKiKYNDCB6WkCnfkrb0YO5yIaGnOTm syqiz9bzA/w400-h296/Wuppertal%20Brauhaus%20Ext.jpg (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiND_rbcBiK-Zisvg_l6NfZMC3zMjw3Vx_zxRdDS0yuhWtFUNdsg4PBfMOrB9E G4F18EwZ52WelkyxPMs8xFdM-CyhBvUTr6SxO8-4XuIxLKkOV56kB2YwbSf3YqivQ2WN-XTgpY0Sv7Ws9eReohD5qmKiKYNDCB6WkCnfkrb0YO5yIaGnOTm syqiz9bzA/s4051/Wuppertal%20Brauhaus%20Ext.jpg)
So why isn’t Dortmunder morewidely known, and why haven’t I come across it on my travels? I haven’t been toDortmund, but I have been quite close to the city, following visits to Solingenand Wuppertal. There was no sign of Dortmunder beer in either of theselocations, and the only place where I have seen the beer advertised, was at Gaststätte Lommerzheim (Lommi (https://baileysbeerblog.blogspot.com/2023/03/gaststatte-lommerzheim-cologne-classic.html)) (https://baileysbeerblog.blogspot.com/2023/03/gaststatte-lommerzheim-cologne-classic.html), the legendary Cologne BierHaus, on the wrong side of the River Rhine, that I finally managed to visitback in March. A largesign, on the front of the pub, advertises Dortmunder AktienBier (DAB), even though Lommi only sells Kölsch. Boak & Bailey mentionedthis anomaly in their recent “Impressions of Köln” (https://boakandbailey.com/2023/11/impressions-of-koln-expansion-pack/)post, but the presence ofthis sign, on a pub which is a rare, pre-war survivor from the indiscriminatecarpet bombing of the last war, does suggest Dortmunder beer was at one time,more widely available than it is today, in Germany. Finally,we have reached the point in the post where I reveal when and where I was finallyable to drink a glass of genuine Dortmunder beer.
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjshLdEAvdZOCrpGhwU-K8gieEXcBZVZCI6cM1Vl3ZCinLq7eNQTOiJpVpNA-8_CnDKhbdY1HqqhyphenhyphenVYej4b92YgDItjrWiA0ipP_G 33bP1faslCSvAGfYYztgkbft6H-cs8G9MbZInPCZiq1NRidS03x2WxMbo-tau_5BC8v_NItlmp6GT_b-gankBoxW0/w400-h346/Nelson%20side%20view.jpg (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjshLdEAvdZOCrpGhwU-K8gieEXcBZVZCI6cM1Vl3ZCinLq7eNQTOiJpVpNA-8_CnDKhbdY1HqqhyphenhyphenVYej4b92YgDItjrWiA0ipP_G 33bP1faslCSvAGfYYztgkbft6H-cs8G9MbZInPCZiq1NRidS03x2WxMbo-tau_5BC8v_NItlmp6GT_b-gankBoxW0/s3400/Nelson%20side%20view.jpg)
Two days after arriving back in England, following ourcruise, I called in at the Nelson Arms in Tonbridge, craving a glass of two of Englishale. Those cravings were satisfied by a pint of Shere Drop, from Surrey HillsBrewery, followed by one of Gale’s HSB, but whilst propping up the bar (it wasvery crowded that day), I noticed quite a few glasses of Dortmunder Union beerbeing served. I had to ask the barmaid, as the keg beers at the Nelsonaren’t that well-advertised, coming as they do from the “beer wall” behind the bar.She confirmed my observation was correct and told me the pub had only recentlystarted stocking the beer. It had proved a big hit with the locals, so much sothat it is now a regular feature on the beer wall. There wasn’t time, there andthen for me to try the beer, but I made the decision to have a pint ofDortmunder, the next time I was in the Nelson.
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJIQR9xl5zCZj3Tb1uUqlfrOWQTNnlybg0tlQQ42TSqx ngrvkFR8LEbt7ovoPAcYQeXpP5a4g8eB_8hgrzJzE770g4JuSn Kz9y-h3md1hefyJSVf9q1-WsrSY8aq-OaJeEiZAt_HFJrRUoE9FdWw5S0nGzXvzoDpQ_MTmzpHMU-Ko8xjivhwu5ATdacrE/w225-h400/Nelson%20Certificate.jpg (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJIQR9xl5zCZj3Tb1uUqlfrOWQTNnlybg0tlQQ42TSqx ngrvkFR8LEbt7ovoPAcYQeXpP5a4g8eB_8hgrzJzE770g4JuSn Kz9y-h3md1hefyJSVf9q1-WsrSY8aq-OaJeEiZAt_HFJrRUoE9FdWw5S0nGzXvzoDpQ_MTmzpHMU-Ko8xjivhwu5ATdacrE/s4000/Nelson%20Certificate.jpg)
That time came quicker than I thought, as the otherWednesday, I found myself in the pub, as part of the local CAMRA group, whowere presenting the Nelson’s licensees with a certificate, to mark the pub reachingthe final stage of this year’s CAMRA Pub of the Year. Yes, the Nelson is one ofthe four finalists in this year's competition, and deservedly so! After enjoying a couple of Harvey’s beers – Dark Mild andBonfire Boy (the latter was excellent), I just had to finish the session with apint of Dortmunder. My purchase turned afew heads amongst the CAMRA crowd, although when I explained my decision, I’msure they understood the reasoning behind it. Matt the landlord confirmed thatit was the genuine article and is obtained via a wholesaler. Quite a few of thepub’s regulars have taken to the beer, and it is now stocked at the Nelson,instead of Paulaner Helles from Munich.
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuf5Orjyd2M67sKyQk7V1DZ8kg9QuQ1nHF5jzpXMlNp3 01tD6MpVVTWwx3DM1ne9yuW6pgPFbovBTHPQrkZQr4rt5NJYWC Q-xIZ6TzgUcxzubnGM2OMNYAGXDZ1zObaXEY5FBkO7KAmcFycloV 75GlExxGLxSLbP2i5pPFj2nFeex56YjdikhfSxjrv-c/w225-h400/Dortmunder%20beer.jpg (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuf5Orjyd2M67sKyQk7V1DZ8kg9QuQ1nHF5jzpXMlNp3 01tD6MpVVTWwx3DM1ne9yuW6pgPFbovBTHPQrkZQr4rt5NJYWC Q-xIZ6TzgUcxzubnGM2OMNYAGXDZ1zObaXEY5FBkO7KAmcFycloV 75GlExxGLxSLbP2i5pPFj2nFeex56YjdikhfSxjrv-c/s3969/Dortmunder%20beer.jpg)
It was a decent pint of lager, although it was nothingspectacular, and there’s the rub, because it’s almost certainly the reason forDortmunder’s demise. With no real outstanding features, there’s nothing really to distinguish the style from other lagers (https://www.bierdame.com/dortmund/), such as Pilsner or Helles. Esteemedbeer writer Roger Protz reached the same conclusion, in this piece from 2004. (https://protzonbeer.co.uk/features/2004/04/01/dortmund-the-burton-of-germany) Healso made comparisons between Dortmund and Burton-on-Trent; a point that alsocrossed my mind – although I was thinking more of the high sulphate local water,which is a common connection between both towns.Roger’s final point was one that seems to have come to pass.He describes Dortmunder, as one of the world's great beer styles, before claimingit is in danger of withering on the vine. I’m not sure about his first point, becauseas stated above, I found little evidence in the pint I drank to confirm thatclaim. Sadly, Roger is almost certainly correct about Dortmunder withering onthe vine, and unless the brewers of its home city make a concerted effort topromote the beer, and really get behind it, this once renowned style of beer,really is in danger of disappearing for good.
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