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01-08-2023, 07:13
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WW I might have put the boot into Porter, but Stout was still alive and kicking in London. Looking at Whitbread\s production figures, it looks as if some Porter drinkers switched to Stout. It would make sense, as post-war Stout was very similar to pre-war Porter.

Whitbread brewed considerable quantities of Stout between the wars. However, the long-term tendency was of decline.

Over the interwar period, the proportion of Whitbread’s output that was Porter and Stout fell from 35% to 22%. A worrying trend and a sign of what would come after WW II.

This is the time when a couple of Stout variants became incredibly popular: Oatmeal Stout and Milk Stout. Both sort-of exclusively in bottled form.

Oatmeal Stout had been around since the 1890s and was already pretty popular in the runup to WW I. While the original versions, such as Maclay’s, had a hefty quantity of oats, later imitators used ridiculously small amounts. And, as they were often parti-gyled with other Stouts, a company’s draught Stout might also contain unannounced oats.

Milk Stout was developed by Mackeson in 1911. They claimed to want to create a more nourishing form of Stout by adding lactose. They made much play of this on their labels and advertising. It was a big hit. Too big a hit for a small brewer like Mackeson.

Originally, they allowed other brewers to produce Milk Stout under licence. This system broke down after a while when breweries brewed versions without bothering to get a licence. In the 1930s, Mackeson came under the control of Whitbread. Who started brewing their Milk Stout at Chiswell Street in 1936.

The odd strong Stout continued to brewed, mostly for export. Though a few specialities, such as Barclay’s Imperial Russian Stout, continued to be brewed at pre-war strength.

Another big development was the opening of Guinness’s Park Royal brewery in London. Bringing together the two great Stout brewing traditions. Not that Guinness picked up anything from local practices. They brewed exactly the same way as they did in Dublin.



Whitbread Porter and Stout output 1921 - 1939



P
S
CS
LS
ES
MS
SSS
Total Porter & Stout
Total Ale & Porter
% Porter & Stout


1921
15,688
58,452

133,563
30,920


238,623
675,647
35.32%


1922
16,562
47,530
84,703
15,340
28,582


192,717
576,118
33.45%


1923
14,165
39,960
68,326
20,866
26,660


169,977
505,097
33.65%


1924
15,948
37,834
74,258
23,442
26,710


178,192
551,616
32.30%


1925
14,943
35,396
62,357
22,262
28,974


163,932
527,977
31.05%


1926
13,511
34,567
20,721
69,724
29,990


168,513
512,528
32.88%


1927
10,708
30,087

86,569
22,361


149,725
462,250
32.39%


1928
10,105
30,017

85,992
16,039


142,153
488,357
29.11%


1929
5,558
17,284

51,624
11,313


85,779
443,888
19.32%


1930
13,840
25,643

90,801
20,724


151,008
535,271
28.21%


1931
13,389
17,109

93,094
20,027


143,619
495,805
28.97%


1932
10,493


100,632
15,342


126,467
442,755
28.56%


1933
9,653


97,810
13,973


121,436
471,190
25.77%


1934
9,444


91,660
21,116


122,220
501,180
24.39%


1935
8,006


89,617
25,646


123,269
528,370
23.33%


1936
6,836


85,748
16,868
14,428

123,880
540,995
22.90%


1937
5,939


82,900
10,805
27,730

127,374
565,230
22.53%


1938
5,133


75,651
10,022
36,769

127,575
569,532
22.40%


1939
3,810


67,177
6,037
50,890
928
128,842
590,695
21.81%


Sources:


Whitbread brewing records held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document numbers LMA/4453/D/09/114 to LMA/4453/D/09/126 and LMA/4453/D/01/086 to LMA/4453/D/01/107.


This is an excerpt from my new book on London Stout. Get your copy now! (https://www.lulu.com/shop/ronald-pattinson-and-ronald-pattinson/stout/paperback/product-74nk4w.html)

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