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05-07-2023, 13:23
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You left me at the end of the last post, on the platform ofSalford Crescent station waiting for a train back to Manchester Victoria. I'drecently received a message from Retired Martin, saying that he was in Sinclair’sOyster Bar, in the Cathedral Gates area of the city. Awaiting my presence. Unfortunately,I had just missed a train, and the next one was showing as cancelled. It wasthen that the legendary friendliness of the Mancunian people came into play,something which took me back to my days as a student living in the city.
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This was because I got chatting to a chap on the platform, whohad missed the same train as me, but had a much longer journey. York was hisfinal destination, And he was trying to work out the easiest and quickest route.He was also the perfect gentleman, helping two elderly ladies, by lifting theircases up onto the luggage rack. He also retrieved them, as the train pulled intoVictoria station.
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I wished him luck with his journey, and then hot footed italong towards Sinclair’s. The equally legendary Mancunian rain had started, butit was only a short walk and time is of the essence, I didn't stop to retrievemy lightweight, foldable raincoat from my backpack. I'd already passed Sinclair’s,along with the adjoining Old Wellington Inn earlier that morning, on my waydown to the station. Fortunately, I'd stopped to take some photos, which isjust as well consider the damp conditions that greeted my return.
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Sinclair’s and the Old Wellington were two of the top pubson my list of must visit establishments, not only because of that undoubted age,but more importantly because they were survivors, pubs that somehow managed toavoid the wrecking ball and the all-pervasive mantra of the 60s and 70s, whichwas to knock it all down and start again. I think it was the writer Richard Bostonwho famously said that Manchester's city fathers had decreed, no brick or stoneshould be allowed to lie on top of another for more than 30 years.
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I mentioned in the post before last, when I was enthusingabout my forthcoming visit, that these two ancient watering holes were underwraps for most of the time I lived in the city. This was when the Arndale shoppingcentre was being constructed around them. Half a century is a long period oftime, and the memory sometimes plays tricks, but I have a feeling I did manageto visit the Old Wellington shortly after it reopened, This would have beenshortly before I left Manchester. Twenty years afterwards, following the massiveIRA bomb, that devastated a large section of the city centre, the Wellingtonand Sinclair’s were once again moved to their current, and more appropriatepositions, in the vicinity of Manchester Cathedral.

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According to Martin’s earlier message, he was upstairs. Moreimportantly he had confirmed that this Samuel Smiths pub was stockinghand-pulled Old Brewery Bitter, and that it was on good form. I saw the pumps formyself as I entered the pub, but thinking, as in Sam’s legendary Londonwatering hole - the Chandos, near Trafalgar Square, that Sinclair’s wouldhave a bar upstairs as well. It did, but it was closed, so after greetingMartin I headed back down the steep wooden staircase and ordered myself a pintof Tadcaster’s finest.
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Rich, creamy and topped with that famous Yorkshire head, theOBB was indeed on top form, and priced at just £3 a pint, it was a real bargainas well. It was also the first pint of the day too and was an excellent beer tobegin a day’s drinking. The upstairs rooms at Sinclair’s remind me of those atthe Chandos, although the notices reminding customers of Sam Smith’s quiet pubpolicy with its strict ban on the use of mobile devices, are normally in evidenceat the company’s London pubs.
Martin and I cracked the odd joke about it, and it didn'tactually stop me from sneaking a couple of photos of a secluded part of theupstairs area, but these were the only ones I was brave enough to take. I toldMartin it was good of him to take time out from his busy schedule, and popacross the Pennines from his home in Sheffield, to meet up and act as mysemi-official tour guide. I had produced a list of a dozen city centre pubsthat I thought worthy of visiting and had posted it earlier on the Beer &Pubs Forum. We were obviously not going to get round all of them, and in the end,I visited six, whilst Martin did four. The reason for the discrepancy was RMhad combined his Manchester visit with an obligatory haircut, as his youngestson is a qualified barber, who lives and works in the city.

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Martin claimed we were lucky to get a seat at Sinclair’s,because had it been a match day for either of Manchester’s two main footballclubs, the place would have been absolutely rammed. As it was, we were able toenjoy an excellent pint of OBB, whilst catching up on the latest pub and beernews. The subject of lunch came up, as did that of “must visit” pubs. One ofthese was the Marble Arch, in Rochdale Road on the edge of the city’s northernquarter. The award-winning Marble beers were at one time brewed at the pub, butthe company now has its own stand-alone brewery, in Salford.
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Martin recommended the food offering at the Marble Arch, buton the way suggested we call in at the Hare & Hounds, one of two pubs quite closeto one another in Shudehill. The other pub is the Lower Turks Head, a Holts pub,that looked the most traditional of the pair, certainly on the outside. The Hare& Hounds is on CAMRA’s National Inventory of historic pubs, due to itsinterior of exceptional national, and historical importance.
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The Hare & Hounds it was then, which suited me as I'vebeen ticking pubs listed on this inventory, for many years. Although a Robinson’spub, Holts Bitter was available, and to our minds seemed a better alternativeto Robinson’s Dizzy Blonde. We watched as our pints were pulled with a nice,thick, creamy head, and as the beer settled in the glass, we made our way tothe front room of the pub where there were some spare seats. We continued catchingup on events, holiday plans, etc, before heading up hill towards the Rochdale Road,and the Marble Arch pub.
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Unfortunately, the rain that had eased off earlier, returnedwith a vengeance, and we were quite wet by the time we reached the sanctuary ofthe pub. This was my first visit to the Marble Arch, and I have to say what asmashing unspoilt boozer it was, with a wide range of Marble beers on offer. Beer,food, and conversation appeared to be the order of the day, with no noisydistractions such a jukebox or a TV. There were six cask ales on sale at thebar, plus a number of keg beers, all brewed by Marble. I opted for Manchester Bitter, even though I was tempted to go for the beer called “Pint”, just so Icould have the perverse pleasure of requesting “a pint of pint!”
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I've had the latter beer several times, but I don't thinkI've ever tried the Manchester Bitter, and can report that this hoppy, drytasting, and very bitter beer really did hit the spot. Martin took theopportunity to order himself a burger and chips, so I followed suit. Beingconscious of my figure, and also wanting to leave room for some beer, I wentfor the mini burger option instead. It was very good when it arrived, so muchso that I was left thinking I should have gone for the full-size version!
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As I said earlier, the Marble Arch was a real drinkers puband it's probably just as well, we got there when we did, because it wasstarting to fill up with a good mix of customers. It was the sort of pub Icould have spent the rest of the afternoon in. There were other places to visit,and Martin also needed that promised haircut. We headed back into the city downtowards the Arndale Centre and then cut through towards the town hall, and theCentral Library. Shortly afterwards we parted company for a while, with Martinheading off to the barbers, and me making my way towards another classic pub.
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvIqxWWplNpcbZAO9TgUS121PHvERNR5QGcWSvZ2Nyvu CJ3d0Aem9LzEUtr2XuuUIhEkLcFeY4ebWSOOPNeA8POJCa5UkZ ybMfeIQHffOF99RdFV10QB_Ixg5-Ef12sK0pysv12RJYYC9zVejvOfWeGJ4pTjGOi0z-afayHn_C1A6SJOL5a1j8_558tLU/w400-h225/Marble%20Arch%20Burger.jpg (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvIqxWWplNpcbZAO9TgUS121PHvERNR5QGcWSvZ2Nyvu CJ3d0Aem9LzEUtr2XuuUIhEkLcFeY4ebWSOOPNeA8POJCa5UkZ ybMfeIQHffOF99RdFV10QB_Ixg5-Ef12sK0pysv12RJYYC9zVejvOfWeGJ4pTjGOi0z-afayHn_C1A6SJOL5a1j8_558tLU/s4000/Marble%20Arch%20Burger.jpg)
You will need to wait for the next post, to find out what itwas, but rest assured, it was another classic and unspoiled Manchester pub, andone worth making a bit of a detour, to find.
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