Blog Tracker
14-03-2022, 22:13
Visit the Paul Bailey's Beer Blog site (https://baileysbeerblog.blogspot.com/2022/03/that-was-year-that-was-2015.html)
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi3pJy7OdRC-GaS7cM4CKkIAWc4VCyLRr1U4-rK68CJ_ETanJZSXaJ5yEuFOKTKoZqXNmRYprvl3p3-nfHdaWQr7fn80dUzPoH2wfxJhajJfE9SkS8TfwXL9A-au47L6PjN7hqaNwu5RjCNuKPKdIK5TGv4bxt2h9dXRwXE96d-PPc45vlXYZ1fe-VP=w400-h225 (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi3pJy7OdRC-GaS7cM4CKkIAWc4VCyLRr1U4-rK68CJ_ETanJZSXaJ5yEuFOKTKoZqXNmRYprvl3p3-nfHdaWQr7fn80dUzPoH2wfxJhajJfE9SkS8TfwXL9A-au47L6PjN7hqaNwu5RjCNuKPKdIK5TGv4bxt2h9dXRwXE96d-PPc45vlXYZ1fe-VP=s3104)
2015 was one hell of a year, packed with some amazing travel and beer-related experiences; in fact, I would say that for a number of reasons, it was the best year ever. It was a year in which I crammed in more trips abroad than any years previously, or indeed since. Looking back, I’m not quite sure how I manged it, but everything just fell into place, in a way that has since proved hard to mimic, so what exactly happened and where did I go?
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjDJLSefmD1h9vm3MbPzv6HDisLvwtP5dtC_4_Usx2ES9 pqBSECTspjhw3kwmABit-JZCCoc-tM6E5blzSTh3tQrcXP19P5gLfQCuia6_xh6ETRtR_eP8JRsBd3 HhSP_wX_trSPBsL51QmZAb5Vo9KcQM3kr5HSWT3A6A3_HfziAf mQQjyPRE4pNAaB=w400-h225 (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjDJLSefmD1h9vm3MbPzv6HDisLvwtP5dtC_4_Usx2ES9 pqBSECTspjhw3kwmABit-JZCCoc-tM6E5blzSTh3tQrcXP19P5gLfQCuia6_xh6ETRtR_eP8JRsBd3 HhSP_wX_trSPBsL51QmZAb5Vo9KcQM3kr5HSWT3A6A3_HfziAf mQQjyPRE4pNAaB=s3104)
Where to start though? And where better than Prague, capital of the Czech Republic, and a city I have visited half a dozen times. Two of those visits took place in 2015, and both were as preludes to spending time in other locations within the country.
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEibxp8-BadcT6Rb89AgGzykE3XG4308kxiz6XS0Rhpg3XHfcMVizPYEz8 5-U_cbAE6ee0CTtBgOQUaN6Yu1EMKBwOJuZAXFdqqOKH8jj3vGeH 0WSDn4sWIQZHpbjfz-8HSZNsypdIS4-vnNpZwe27yQkqJvRcB2dNex9ZRak-_ZD5O6VYUBJDSqWQYG=w400-h225 (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEibxp8-BadcT6Rb89AgGzykE3XG4308kxiz6XS0Rhpg3XHfcMVizPYEz8 5-U_cbAE6ee0CTtBgOQUaN6Yu1EMKBwOJuZAXFdqqOKH8jj3vGeH 0WSDn4sWIQZHpbjfz-8HSZNsypdIS4-vnNpZwe27yQkqJvRcB2dNex9ZRak-_ZD5O6VYUBJDSqWQYG=s3104)
The first visit took place that May and was only a couple of days in length. Prague was the rendezvous for the tour group from Maidstone CAMRA I was joining, before heading off to the city of Jihlava, which was to be our base for the next four days. Situated in almost the exact geographical centre of the Czech Republic, Jihlava, which is well away from the tourist hot spots of Prague and Pilsen, proved to be the ideal place for exploring this lesser-known part of the country.
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgQiObooCwXVzdzJSkePgLsB4fvwKF9MeWubbNn360WvI Z5DBiEjzs9AYfRg3affYymeDGe090fgGpeRpmsIplvlTwYngEs e6OUW_Ufgj6M6xAAitzymFgoXneYAroq-w_FP3Mtalp_q8F6V6tg0JfgvT-Q5sk83i-sqjJ4_pkrZbURun6ACVNhrc-P=w400-h225 (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgQiObooCwXVzdzJSkePgLsB4fvwKF9MeWubbNn360WvI Z5DBiEjzs9AYfRg3affYymeDGe090fgGpeRpmsIplvlTwYngEs e6OUW_Ufgj6M6xAAitzymFgoXneYAroq-w_FP3Mtalp_q8F6V6tg0JfgvT-Q5sk83i-sqjJ4_pkrZbURun6ACVNhrc-P=s3104)
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgkwbY9Y7DUdNi6xVxybeQu3GNyFsOC_RQZHpODhjUHFe WrfjOoOIz9o20oHYJyO_x_DSbRi-Zx-Kaul9wviy-7Aeh4bG9np7_kFTEs0OJac6nLEZgy-2Dv6T9r12WLQWBJZPKtPYKnVnTmAOPVtGqQCPWpqpDY-eMikQVtzoMW46v2oqIJ_63AivDc=w400-h225 (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgkwbY9Y7DUdNi6xVxybeQu3GNyFsOC_RQZHpODhjUHFe WrfjOoOIz9o20oHYJyO_x_DSbRi-Zx-Kaul9wviy-7Aeh4bG9np7_kFTEs0OJac6nLEZgy-2Dv6T9r12WLQWBJZPKtPYKnVnTmAOPVtGqQCPWpqpDY-eMikQVtzoMW46v2oqIJ_63AivDc=s3104)Unfortunately, the hot and dry weather I enjoyed in Prague, was replaced by wet, windy, and decidedly cool conditions by the time we arrived in Jihlava, but on the basis that there is no such thing as bad weather, just inappropriate clothing, I had a real good time in both locations. Highlights of Prague were the morning I spent exploring the area around Prague Castle and St Vitus’s Cathedral, an al fresco lunch at Klášterni pinovar Matŭska, (http://klasternirestaurace.cz/en/)before heading back down towards the Charles Bridge and the old town area of Staré Mésto. Although serious tourist territory, I managed a visit, to U Tři Růži; which at the time was one of Prague’s newest brew-pubs. I also made the obligatory visit to U Fleků, (http://en.ufleku.cz/)Prague’s original brewpub, which claims to be the oldest brewpub in the world.
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEin4-wu7ZebrnPFduwFwpG-5_YR24wnsybJhnrIMwTiMp4FW0ydlHl3BDMW56i2PAyhKDSn3j BHVtB35a5Uvt42-tm9JKOynoh6TS8H_33aorgnuD5XT6i18t4qTY3Of4eu29uVYo_ WrDwdzz9mrUHG6bw5kM7wV8G-MMHHFizglOhe--rA2MxQeqUS=w400-h225 (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEin4-wu7ZebrnPFduwFwpG-5_YR24wnsybJhnrIMwTiMp4FW0ydlHl3BDMW56i2PAyhKDSn3j BHVtB35a5Uvt42-tm9JKOynoh6TS8H_33aorgnuD5XT6i18t4qTY3Of4eu29uVYo_ WrDwdzz9mrUHG6bw5kM7wV8G-MMHHFizglOhe--rA2MxQeqUS=s3104)Our stay in Jihlava, included a tour of the Bernard Brewery (http://www.bernard.cz/en/)in Humpolec, a cultural day, visiting the well-preserved towns of Slavonice and Telč, plus a visit to the Chotebor Pivovar microbrewery, and the Rebel brewpub in Havlickuv Brod. Special mention should be made of the bus ride back from Telč to Jihlava, which took us through some of the most pleasing countryside I have ever seen. I can still picture the rolling hills, dark forests and stretches of verdant green pasture, that make up the region, and the numerous fishponds which dot the landscape. The winding country roads we travelled along, lined by blossom-laden apple trees, completed the picture, and not for the first time, that year, I said to myself, “Life doesn’t get much better than this!”
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjsU0_pic8ulFOiRoUPFhifyTuTHYiwWJkb8yDiXw4ZI_ Su0-Z06PZqTVbzL8jXReeuERvWXnDahVil7pPbQbRceeqwID-QtDhNJY0LHOTxY84MgqtVoeC9_WVxenRjU5P-nOnqec6cCwKvw6uqOjEcPQwEpo8I_t8lI_vGD6pz7XCgZEfKCY NhHr1l=w400-h300 (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjsU0_pic8ulFOiRoUPFhifyTuTHYiwWJkb8yDiXw4ZI_ Su0-Z06PZqTVbzL8jXReeuERvWXnDahVil7pPbQbRceeqwID-QtDhNJY0LHOTxY84MgqtVoeC9_WVxenRjU5P-nOnqec6cCwKvw6uqOjEcPQwEpo8I_t8lI_vGD6pz7XCgZEfKCY NhHr1l=s640)
Sticking with Prague, my second visit of 2015 to the Czech capital, took place in the autumn of that year, in October to be precise. As with the first visit, I used Prague as a staging post, and a prelude to a visit elsewhere in the country. Given the relatively small size of Czechia, flying into Václav Havel airport in Prague makes perfect sense and, as on the previous occasion, it allowed me to spend some time in this most beautiful of central European cities. This time around, I also had son Matthew for company.
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhlPc1_YIhKr-EW-1bk8PsYj4-ztOHpkteVPZDODMzygUeTm1F7bjkOiLQY1ACW9MqQxrZ-g-ULEl9pcfP1iIvr4-2fVNWJOWODRl2KYjf-Fh-AJ5bibsIJGjUAQIAYmwxjaxyW4PkGkjEBgXejwkZlVA2MuFAV-M5RzrrLfkRXgpXoCSIOvHZukRRi=w400-h300 (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhlPc1_YIhKr-EW-1bk8PsYj4-ztOHpkteVPZDODMzygUeTm1F7bjkOiLQY1ACW9MqQxrZ-g-ULEl9pcfP1iIvr4-2fVNWJOWODRl2KYjf-Fh-AJ5bibsIJGjUAQIAYmwxjaxyW4PkGkjEBgXejwkZlVA2MuFAV-M5RzrrLfkRXgpXoCSIOvHZukRRi=s1600)
Basically, our trip was a tale of two contrasting halves; spending four nights in the big city atmosphere of Prague, followed by four nights in the delightful preserved medieval town of Český Krumlov. (http://www.czechtourism.com/t/cesky-krumlov-unesco/) The latter wasn’t without its share of tourists; in fact the town is now the second most popular destination for foreign visitors to the Czech Republic. Český Krumlov (http://www.czechtourism.com/t/cesky-krumlov-unesco/) is people sized though, and easily seen in a day, but for me it was the perfect place to relax and enjoy a few beers - after taking in some of the impressive sights of this beautiful medieval town. It was also a town that had been on my bucket list, for more years than I care to remember.
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi0ZrS1FMunj9GHe1xA_ynQntypd4oaVu_6VGCh0uqC3p 57dw2HQxEhGFIc43rvKoQRFicP7p8aVbaB7_mNai7E-1btqTR1HgyP-oGzCAVKWH9pjC5Q8bIaEIqXbJrtDuagCUAvarPSbKbgLPyhsmJ fDZUeb4wlOknGoAoIRyhE4_70KZZOHyHkWHK-=w400-h300 (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi0ZrS1FMunj9GHe1xA_ynQntypd4oaVu_6VGCh0uqC3p 57dw2HQxEhGFIc43rvKoQRFicP7p8aVbaB7_mNai7E-1btqTR1HgyP-oGzCAVKWH9pjC5Q8bIaEIqXbJrtDuagCUAvarPSbKbgLPyhsmJ fDZUeb4wlOknGoAoIRyhE4_70KZZOHyHkWHK-=s1600)
Our time in Prague was spent visiting a variety of different brewpubs, most of which were new to us. We stayed at the same hotel that I had used back in May, although this time around, the room overlooked the street at the side, rather than the rail tracks at the rear. We also took a trip out, by train, to the Škoda car works in the town of Mladá Boleslav, where we had a conducted tour of the factory.The weather was also disappointing, with rain at times, although by the time we reached Český Krumlov (http://www.czechtourism.com/t/cesky-krumlov-unesco/), it was characterised by sunny days, but increasingly cold nights. Autumn was definitely a week or two ahead of the UK, with some spectacular seasonal colours from the trees.
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEixH7lO1ZC9r_GXqhfoRONwL93_q8dJujIenIWp7RGQUt pKdBxoLC5T09onodbyj7GLhMorRbzHzLjSLitq9h05eq2QNxKb bML6iI7diO7E1jn0E5dXlWYiIUtvtz_oafn83Dx1cRfma7VuWG A1NVbpNZdfjJ52lOQcMCbvzp52rNsAXz_O55PUJasp=w400-h300 (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEixH7lO1ZC9r_GXqhfoRONwL93_q8dJujIenIWp7RGQUt pKdBxoLC5T09onodbyj7GLhMorRbzHzLjSLitq9h05eq2QNxKb bML6iI7diO7E1jn0E5dXlWYiIUtvtz_oafn83Dx1cRfma7VuWG A1NVbpNZdfjJ52lOQcMCbvzp52rNsAXz_O55PUJasp=s1600)
Český Krumlov certainly didn’t disappoint, and still lived up to the description given by beer enthusiast, and CAMRA founding member, Graham Lees, in his Guide to Prague & the Czech Republic. Writing in 1996, Lees described this small, southern Bohemian town as a "Time-warped, medieval beauty, built in a tight loop of the Vltava river". He went on to say that "It's as though some witch had cast a Sleeping Beauty-like spell over the entire edifice. But the spell is now wearing off, and the more tourists who "discover" it, the more it will change".
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiTp_7m3ZLoZsh9A-SypP3wFQwuAIy5u4CKrn-WDo0_h0Za34Dnt4kAHzDAdTfvHzcSq2oIw2zg0UpM0rdMUwsHr DfoOMFJNtkR2MtR8Dc77uQebhftWmhfbDVjeyF1N036hZhkRlO _gcCtGqy0Hf7khCF5Qj9qGddY-tLIzc1lI29t5El86zLdnvWM=w400-h300 (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiTp_7m3ZLoZsh9A-SypP3wFQwuAIy5u4CKrn-WDo0_h0Za34Dnt4kAHzDAdTfvHzcSq2oIw2zg0UpM0rdMUwsHr DfoOMFJNtkR2MtR8Dc77uQebhftWmhfbDVjeyF1N036hZhkRlO _gcCtGqy0Hf7khCF5Qj9qGddY-tLIzc1lI29t5El86zLdnvWM=s1600)
Many tourists had of course, "discovered"it during the 20 years since those words were written and the visit, in 2015, by Matthew and me. I wrote at the time that Cesky Krumlov is still well worth seeing. It's massive castle, overlooking the river, is the second largest in the country, after Prague, and the old town is still a maze of twisting, narrow streets, virtually unchanged since medieval times. There were hordes of mainly Chinese tourists, complete with their selfie-sticks, but they tended to gravitate around the castle and the old town square, and were thus easily avoided.
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjAvz1CeOCpxC_SmtjWXUYAoLy8nw5dd-w4NNqxn_x3-p_0G5X7b-TrkoNQHxniSk_ZtVdPYxB_GmaTz_sqQX0wwJnuuGY7p0bsbxpL LaqVZTKf7VydvmFyGuWDUo_JogMU8Dl-8vvB_1QVpFbej4TxpHIWQ8O4-EGcD75mhwuEvhN_YmxFrdADjXzg=w400-h300 (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjAvz1CeOCpxC_SmtjWXUYAoLy8nw5dd-w4NNqxn_x3-p_0G5X7b-TrkoNQHxniSk_ZtVdPYxB_GmaTz_sqQX0wwJnuuGY7p0bsbxpL LaqVZTKf7VydvmFyGuWDUo_JogMU8Dl-8vvB_1QVpFbej4TxpHIWQ8O4-EGcD75mhwuEvhN_YmxFrdADjXzg=s4608)
At the end of August, I found myself in Brussels for the European Beer Bloggers Conference. Now despite its reputation for fine beer and equally fine chocolate, Brussels has never been my favourite city, but over the course of that visit, which happened to be my fourth, I did start to warm to the place more. I found that the city centre is surprisingly compact, and as well as visiting some new bars, along with a few old favourites, I discovered a lot more about Belgian beer and the nation’s brewing culture.
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjaFh0IHf1flTOZjmlUJdQj9XHcT7oPJj1uFmNermzOTl TvWU2Wri37l8zUy4u4Qg3jObHJtWjKe2keKAE5tcX-O67soZ5r5mJxp_jBRNYDBY2v0DV1F3xZi3q16sxPMKRErhSUXd 18gGXaqj5O8aR71CijxV4YQwNKScURvGSAY_ED8LW6y3jH_h5R =w400-h300 (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjaFh0IHf1flTOZjmlUJdQj9XHcT7oPJj1uFmNermzOTl TvWU2Wri37l8zUy4u4Qg3jObHJtWjKe2keKAE5tcX-O67soZ5r5mJxp_jBRNYDBY2v0DV1F3xZi3q16sxPMKRErhSUXd 18gGXaqj5O8aR71CijxV4YQwNKScURvGSAY_ED8LW6y3jH_h5R =s4608)
Some of that was the result of the conference itself, but I learned much more after the event, when I joined the post conference trip around West Flanders. This was a relaxed, two-day tour around the province, and included several memorable highlights. One occurred at the In de Vrede café, attached to the Monastery of St Sixtus, just outside Westvleteren. This abbey is the home of the most secretive monastic order, who are also the brewers of Westvleteren 12°, described by Rate Beer, as the best beer in the world.
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj883EJFuU2u9YXL4naSX6qbuLlq1CJcC7D8Jhyi_Qg1-gsztBklldQhI58PvdyNWrYSMQjxXs0fbK0PlzTu1QPXZstjqZX TvN541lj6nXIGdDA4HY2p2uWg60Jxt4jpqqhG_UziJ_enzpMaI HEYfexkl-qxuyjj8L54IvLXxhAMLyC63WFQB573U4h=w400-h300 (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj883EJFuU2u9YXL4naSX6qbuLlq1CJcC7D8Jhyi_Qg1-gsztBklldQhI58PvdyNWrYSMQjxXs0fbK0PlzTu1QPXZstjqZX TvN541lj6nXIGdDA4HY2p2uWg60Jxt4jpqqhG_UziJ_enzpMaI HEYfexkl-qxuyjj8L54IvLXxhAMLyC63WFQB573U4h=s4608)
Sitting outside, with my fellow conference delegates, most of whom were affable and typically outgoing Americans, soaking up the late August sunshine and Westvleteren beer in equal measures, I had another of those “Life doesn’t get much better than this,” moments. The superlatives didn’t finish there, as that evening, we enjoyed a private tour around the Rodenbach brewery, home to the world-renowned Flemish Sour Red Ales. We ended the day with an overnight stopover in Bruges, staying at a luxurious four-star hotel, just off the city centre.
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjNAkrNOi3Rd1umglZyC5N4p1GOCLHsHqK2sYGYA45jnR 9ckYBA1C6zOxcjyXwYgmYyaxeXzcHJR6Nh89ysgaPsl6fs_4Fr 1LMPzOKEUueqmGN6dyjIdq1deP4V-Vt06S2wKWmG5Xs3UT07ff4b3Jm5b51ARKzBUMneyv8IcJnI_g7 tM-Ob-scNEQKV=w240-h320 (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjNAkrNOi3Rd1umglZyC5N4p1GOCLHsHqK2sYGYA45jnR 9ckYBA1C6zOxcjyXwYgmYyaxeXzcHJR6Nh89ysgaPsl6fs_4Fr 1LMPzOKEUueqmGN6dyjIdq1deP4V-Vt06S2wKWmG5Xs3UT07ff4b3Jm5b51ARKzBUMneyv8IcJnI_g7 tM-Ob-scNEQKV=s4608)
I was too tired, and rather too refreshed to hit the town that night, but the following day, we were treated to a guided walking tour of Bruges, which was both interesting and a real eye opener. As if that wasn’t enough, we enjoyed an excellent lunch at the city’s De Halve Maan brewery. On way, passed through the Beguinage – a sanctuary, which offered a home to single or widowed womenwho wanted to live in a pious way but outside the walls of a convent or monastery. Of particular interest to fans of prog-rockers Yes, the Beguinage was the location where the promotional film for the track, Everydays was shot. Written by Stephen Stills and featured on "Time and a Word," the group’s second album, the tranquillity and calm and tranquillity of the surroundings, certainly does both the song, and the film itself, justice. Check it out below, to get the feel of the place, and you will see what I mean.
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj-vI4xcD5sB9fUyBfPFvevhy2PwnfyD9L2Gol2NyTHUEtYs0qhmD tqmG9EnyyaVHsRukye0GyhtCV2LH4wiypeVT8udyxwyF4nsBQh fGIkEsZdr1exgGqL5iogtDMr-daNJ1C6poWqG-5YKkI8LhHcJSsB2jar8Yiu_m7YlciiK4Rnu07z2iKyF2ml=w40 0-h300 (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj-vI4xcD5sB9fUyBfPFvevhy2PwnfyD9L2Gol2NyTHUEtYs0qhmD tqmG9EnyyaVHsRukye0GyhtCV2LH4wiypeVT8udyxwyF4nsBQh fGIkEsZdr1exgGqL5iogtDMr-daNJ1C6poWqG-5YKkI8LhHcJSsB2jar8Yiu_m7YlciiK4Rnu07z2iKyF2ml=s46 08) The year finished with a short family trip to Salzburg, Austria – a visit that allowed us to experience the magic of the city’s Christmas Market, whilst allowing a couple of visits to the Bräustübl at Augustinerbräu Kloster Mülln. Not only is this tavern the largest in Austria, it is also one of the finest and most traditional beer halls anywhere in the world! We arrived shortly after the 3pm opening time, and as we descended the steps from the entrance to the corridor where the food kiosks are situated, everything came flooding back, including the most important part - the ritual necessary to obtain a beer.
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjg6DlBqmOfqvCT0rJ2Ddx_uEVoIn-qMCQG9fAOG5l93zLUBwUH2kV5RhsvLXnEj-FX5FQlIKJGTJONRpji9SKiasiwxCCIjq4VLmrjUAyFJeIESVzv sJxg1XEVsprFuaqqBmF6J6a8F6S1t4OgCEfpQbTNMGXq7ZX9OD P3vAfJ6uCegnJi5c1sjJfn=w400-h300 (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjg6DlBqmOfqvCT0rJ2Ddx_uEVoIn-qMCQG9fAOG5l93zLUBwUH2kV5RhsvLXnEj-FX5FQlIKJGTJONRpji9SKiasiwxCCIjq4VLmrjUAyFJeIESVzv sJxg1XEVsprFuaqqBmF6J6a8F6S1t4OgCEfpQbTNMGXq7ZX9OD P3vAfJ6uCegnJi5c1sjJfn=s4608)
Just round the corner from the end of the corridor, there is a serving area, where you help yourself to a stoneware mug (litre or half litre). You then rinse it at the ornate marble fountain before queuing up and paying the person sitting behind a glass screen. You are then given a ticket, which you hand to the man dispensing the beer, in exchange for him filling your mug with beer, from one of the large wooden casks. You then wander off and find a seat in which ever of the three large, cavernous beer halls that takes your fancy, and get stuck into the beer.
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The beer, which is a full-bodied lager, known as Märzenwith an ABV of 4.6%, is brewed all year round, whilst from Novemberthrough to Christmas a stronger Weinachtsbock (Christmas Bock) at 6.5% ABV is produced. This beer was unavailable during my two previous visits, but it was on this occasion, so I just had to try a mug full. It was everything I expected and more, being rich, malty, and strong enough to taste the alcohol. During the hour or so we were there, the hall had really begun to fill up; such is the popularity of the Augustinerbräu Bräustübl (http://www.augustinerbier.at/).
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The absolute highlight of 2015, started with a visit to the Franconian Beer Festival - held in the incomparable setting of the castle moat of Nuremberg’s massive and imposing Imperial Castle. Fränkisches Bierfest, as it is known locally, showcases beers from around 40 of Franconia’sfinest breweries, and in this respect is more like an English beer festival, thanevents such as Munich’s world-famous Oktoberfest, and the lesser known Cannstatter Volksfest which takes place in Stuttgart.
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I was fortunate to have local beer enthusiast, Erlangernick, as my guide, and in his company, I sampled beers from some of the 38 breweries exhibiting at the festival. These included various Helles, Vollbiers, Landbiers, Kellerbiers, plus the odd Dunklesand Pils. All were good; with some served direct from wooden casks. There was a great party atmosphere, and whilst most festival goers were within the 20–30-year age bracket, there was still a good sprinkling of people from other age groups. What was particularly encouraging was the number of female visitors, to the festival.
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiyWfFDNJjONypMn5Jq1mm-ug414wb1y4TkSajNsGdMYUaxLgjl1EGO4wK74ObhkmTn-jEu9FoEUe6C8RZx6BUEdjl-pAZnb1UA806E72NXAWgTBNDWRCwKdGTyvKcCz5GvSWR6U0kiut gLvFOOT3vQZweZVIJAKWNWxd2HWSObLP0m2q51OwlWPek_=w40 0-h225 (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiyWfFDNJjONypMn5Jq1mm-ug414wb1y4TkSajNsGdMYUaxLgjl1EGO4wK74ObhkmTn-jEu9FoEUe6C8RZx6BUEdjl-pAZnb1UA806E72NXAWgTBNDWRCwKdGTyvKcCz5GvSWR6U0kiut gLvFOOT3vQZweZVIJAKWNWxd2HWSObLP0m2q51OwlWPek_=s31 04)
The following day, on one of the hottest days of the year, I met up with Nick at Roppelt’s Keller, to the north-west of Forchheim. He had borrowed his wife’s car, and his proposal was to drive us both around a few Kellers in the area. There were a couple he wanted to check out, which were well off the beaten track, and he thought I would like to visit them as well. Being chauffeured around some of the region’s best Bier Kellers, by someone with good local knowledge of them was a chance too good to miss, so after finishing my beer, we set off in his car to do just that!
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Driving through the unspoilt countryside of the Steigerwald, in an open-top car, in search of good local beer, and with some vintage Yes (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=39BZwn9tmTk)playing on the car stereo, made me think, once again that “Life doesn’t get much better than this.”Our first port of call was the tiny village of Aisch, where we sat out in the small shady beer garden opposite the Rittmayer Brauerei & Gasthaus. It was here that I tried Spargel (white Asparagus), for the first time.
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We then visited two Kellers, both perched up on hills overlooking some really attractive rolling countryside. Herrmann Kellerbier from Ampferbach, and Müller Kellerbier from Reundorf, were the beery delights at these two stops; the latter beer being enjoyed in the grounds of the substantial Schmausenkeller, high on a hill. It was a wonderful day out and my grateful thanks are due to Nick for acting as my guide and chauffeur.
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It is no exaggeration to say that this brief snapshot, of some of Franconia’s best beer and drinking establishments, was not only the highpoint of 2015, but also remains as one of my all-time best beer experiences. It was the perfect combination of good company, fine weather, splendid scenery, and some wonderfully rustic places in which to enjoy some truly excellent beer. This then, is the perfect spot to finish my round-up of 2015’s “Year in Beer.” Follow Blog via Email Click to follow this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email.
More... (https://baileysbeerblog.blogspot.com/2022/03/that-was-year-that-was-2015.html)
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi3pJy7OdRC-GaS7cM4CKkIAWc4VCyLRr1U4-rK68CJ_ETanJZSXaJ5yEuFOKTKoZqXNmRYprvl3p3-nfHdaWQr7fn80dUzPoH2wfxJhajJfE9SkS8TfwXL9A-au47L6PjN7hqaNwu5RjCNuKPKdIK5TGv4bxt2h9dXRwXE96d-PPc45vlXYZ1fe-VP=w400-h225 (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi3pJy7OdRC-GaS7cM4CKkIAWc4VCyLRr1U4-rK68CJ_ETanJZSXaJ5yEuFOKTKoZqXNmRYprvl3p3-nfHdaWQr7fn80dUzPoH2wfxJhajJfE9SkS8TfwXL9A-au47L6PjN7hqaNwu5RjCNuKPKdIK5TGv4bxt2h9dXRwXE96d-PPc45vlXYZ1fe-VP=s3104)
2015 was one hell of a year, packed with some amazing travel and beer-related experiences; in fact, I would say that for a number of reasons, it was the best year ever. It was a year in which I crammed in more trips abroad than any years previously, or indeed since. Looking back, I’m not quite sure how I manged it, but everything just fell into place, in a way that has since proved hard to mimic, so what exactly happened and where did I go?
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjDJLSefmD1h9vm3MbPzv6HDisLvwtP5dtC_4_Usx2ES9 pqBSECTspjhw3kwmABit-JZCCoc-tM6E5blzSTh3tQrcXP19P5gLfQCuia6_xh6ETRtR_eP8JRsBd3 HhSP_wX_trSPBsL51QmZAb5Vo9KcQM3kr5HSWT3A6A3_HfziAf mQQjyPRE4pNAaB=w400-h225 (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjDJLSefmD1h9vm3MbPzv6HDisLvwtP5dtC_4_Usx2ES9 pqBSECTspjhw3kwmABit-JZCCoc-tM6E5blzSTh3tQrcXP19P5gLfQCuia6_xh6ETRtR_eP8JRsBd3 HhSP_wX_trSPBsL51QmZAb5Vo9KcQM3kr5HSWT3A6A3_HfziAf mQQjyPRE4pNAaB=s3104)
Where to start though? And where better than Prague, capital of the Czech Republic, and a city I have visited half a dozen times. Two of those visits took place in 2015, and both were as preludes to spending time in other locations within the country.
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The first visit took place that May and was only a couple of days in length. Prague was the rendezvous for the tour group from Maidstone CAMRA I was joining, before heading off to the city of Jihlava, which was to be our base for the next four days. Situated in almost the exact geographical centre of the Czech Republic, Jihlava, which is well away from the tourist hot spots of Prague and Pilsen, proved to be the ideal place for exploring this lesser-known part of the country.
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https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgkwbY9Y7DUdNi6xVxybeQu3GNyFsOC_RQZHpODhjUHFe WrfjOoOIz9o20oHYJyO_x_DSbRi-Zx-Kaul9wviy-7Aeh4bG9np7_kFTEs0OJac6nLEZgy-2Dv6T9r12WLQWBJZPKtPYKnVnTmAOPVtGqQCPWpqpDY-eMikQVtzoMW46v2oqIJ_63AivDc=w400-h225 (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgkwbY9Y7DUdNi6xVxybeQu3GNyFsOC_RQZHpODhjUHFe WrfjOoOIz9o20oHYJyO_x_DSbRi-Zx-Kaul9wviy-7Aeh4bG9np7_kFTEs0OJac6nLEZgy-2Dv6T9r12WLQWBJZPKtPYKnVnTmAOPVtGqQCPWpqpDY-eMikQVtzoMW46v2oqIJ_63AivDc=s3104)Unfortunately, the hot and dry weather I enjoyed in Prague, was replaced by wet, windy, and decidedly cool conditions by the time we arrived in Jihlava, but on the basis that there is no such thing as bad weather, just inappropriate clothing, I had a real good time in both locations. Highlights of Prague were the morning I spent exploring the area around Prague Castle and St Vitus’s Cathedral, an al fresco lunch at Klášterni pinovar Matŭska, (http://klasternirestaurace.cz/en/)before heading back down towards the Charles Bridge and the old town area of Staré Mésto. Although serious tourist territory, I managed a visit, to U Tři Růži; which at the time was one of Prague’s newest brew-pubs. I also made the obligatory visit to U Fleků, (http://en.ufleku.cz/)Prague’s original brewpub, which claims to be the oldest brewpub in the world.
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEin4-wu7ZebrnPFduwFwpG-5_YR24wnsybJhnrIMwTiMp4FW0ydlHl3BDMW56i2PAyhKDSn3j BHVtB35a5Uvt42-tm9JKOynoh6TS8H_33aorgnuD5XT6i18t4qTY3Of4eu29uVYo_ WrDwdzz9mrUHG6bw5kM7wV8G-MMHHFizglOhe--rA2MxQeqUS=w400-h225 (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEin4-wu7ZebrnPFduwFwpG-5_YR24wnsybJhnrIMwTiMp4FW0ydlHl3BDMW56i2PAyhKDSn3j BHVtB35a5Uvt42-tm9JKOynoh6TS8H_33aorgnuD5XT6i18t4qTY3Of4eu29uVYo_ WrDwdzz9mrUHG6bw5kM7wV8G-MMHHFizglOhe--rA2MxQeqUS=s3104)Our stay in Jihlava, included a tour of the Bernard Brewery (http://www.bernard.cz/en/)in Humpolec, a cultural day, visiting the well-preserved towns of Slavonice and Telč, plus a visit to the Chotebor Pivovar microbrewery, and the Rebel brewpub in Havlickuv Brod. Special mention should be made of the bus ride back from Telč to Jihlava, which took us through some of the most pleasing countryside I have ever seen. I can still picture the rolling hills, dark forests and stretches of verdant green pasture, that make up the region, and the numerous fishponds which dot the landscape. The winding country roads we travelled along, lined by blossom-laden apple trees, completed the picture, and not for the first time, that year, I said to myself, “Life doesn’t get much better than this!”
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Sticking with Prague, my second visit of 2015 to the Czech capital, took place in the autumn of that year, in October to be precise. As with the first visit, I used Prague as a staging post, and a prelude to a visit elsewhere in the country. Given the relatively small size of Czechia, flying into Václav Havel airport in Prague makes perfect sense and, as on the previous occasion, it allowed me to spend some time in this most beautiful of central European cities. This time around, I also had son Matthew for company.
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Basically, our trip was a tale of two contrasting halves; spending four nights in the big city atmosphere of Prague, followed by four nights in the delightful preserved medieval town of Český Krumlov. (http://www.czechtourism.com/t/cesky-krumlov-unesco/) The latter wasn’t without its share of tourists; in fact the town is now the second most popular destination for foreign visitors to the Czech Republic. Český Krumlov (http://www.czechtourism.com/t/cesky-krumlov-unesco/) is people sized though, and easily seen in a day, but for me it was the perfect place to relax and enjoy a few beers - after taking in some of the impressive sights of this beautiful medieval town. It was also a town that had been on my bucket list, for more years than I care to remember.
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Our time in Prague was spent visiting a variety of different brewpubs, most of which were new to us. We stayed at the same hotel that I had used back in May, although this time around, the room overlooked the street at the side, rather than the rail tracks at the rear. We also took a trip out, by train, to the Škoda car works in the town of Mladá Boleslav, where we had a conducted tour of the factory.The weather was also disappointing, with rain at times, although by the time we reached Český Krumlov (http://www.czechtourism.com/t/cesky-krumlov-unesco/), it was characterised by sunny days, but increasingly cold nights. Autumn was definitely a week or two ahead of the UK, with some spectacular seasonal colours from the trees.
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Český Krumlov certainly didn’t disappoint, and still lived up to the description given by beer enthusiast, and CAMRA founding member, Graham Lees, in his Guide to Prague & the Czech Republic. Writing in 1996, Lees described this small, southern Bohemian town as a "Time-warped, medieval beauty, built in a tight loop of the Vltava river". He went on to say that "It's as though some witch had cast a Sleeping Beauty-like spell over the entire edifice. But the spell is now wearing off, and the more tourists who "discover" it, the more it will change".
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Many tourists had of course, "discovered"it during the 20 years since those words were written and the visit, in 2015, by Matthew and me. I wrote at the time that Cesky Krumlov is still well worth seeing. It's massive castle, overlooking the river, is the second largest in the country, after Prague, and the old town is still a maze of twisting, narrow streets, virtually unchanged since medieval times. There were hordes of mainly Chinese tourists, complete with their selfie-sticks, but they tended to gravitate around the castle and the old town square, and were thus easily avoided.
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At the end of August, I found myself in Brussels for the European Beer Bloggers Conference. Now despite its reputation for fine beer and equally fine chocolate, Brussels has never been my favourite city, but over the course of that visit, which happened to be my fourth, I did start to warm to the place more. I found that the city centre is surprisingly compact, and as well as visiting some new bars, along with a few old favourites, I discovered a lot more about Belgian beer and the nation’s brewing culture.
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjaFh0IHf1flTOZjmlUJdQj9XHcT7oPJj1uFmNermzOTl TvWU2Wri37l8zUy4u4Qg3jObHJtWjKe2keKAE5tcX-O67soZ5r5mJxp_jBRNYDBY2v0DV1F3xZi3q16sxPMKRErhSUXd 18gGXaqj5O8aR71CijxV4YQwNKScURvGSAY_ED8LW6y3jH_h5R =w400-h300 (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjaFh0IHf1flTOZjmlUJdQj9XHcT7oPJj1uFmNermzOTl TvWU2Wri37l8zUy4u4Qg3jObHJtWjKe2keKAE5tcX-O67soZ5r5mJxp_jBRNYDBY2v0DV1F3xZi3q16sxPMKRErhSUXd 18gGXaqj5O8aR71CijxV4YQwNKScURvGSAY_ED8LW6y3jH_h5R =s4608)
Some of that was the result of the conference itself, but I learned much more after the event, when I joined the post conference trip around West Flanders. This was a relaxed, two-day tour around the province, and included several memorable highlights. One occurred at the In de Vrede café, attached to the Monastery of St Sixtus, just outside Westvleteren. This abbey is the home of the most secretive monastic order, who are also the brewers of Westvleteren 12°, described by Rate Beer, as the best beer in the world.
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj883EJFuU2u9YXL4naSX6qbuLlq1CJcC7D8Jhyi_Qg1-gsztBklldQhI58PvdyNWrYSMQjxXs0fbK0PlzTu1QPXZstjqZX TvN541lj6nXIGdDA4HY2p2uWg60Jxt4jpqqhG_UziJ_enzpMaI HEYfexkl-qxuyjj8L54IvLXxhAMLyC63WFQB573U4h=w400-h300 (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj883EJFuU2u9YXL4naSX6qbuLlq1CJcC7D8Jhyi_Qg1-gsztBklldQhI58PvdyNWrYSMQjxXs0fbK0PlzTu1QPXZstjqZX TvN541lj6nXIGdDA4HY2p2uWg60Jxt4jpqqhG_UziJ_enzpMaI HEYfexkl-qxuyjj8L54IvLXxhAMLyC63WFQB573U4h=s4608)
Sitting outside, with my fellow conference delegates, most of whom were affable and typically outgoing Americans, soaking up the late August sunshine and Westvleteren beer in equal measures, I had another of those “Life doesn’t get much better than this,” moments. The superlatives didn’t finish there, as that evening, we enjoyed a private tour around the Rodenbach brewery, home to the world-renowned Flemish Sour Red Ales. We ended the day with an overnight stopover in Bruges, staying at a luxurious four-star hotel, just off the city centre.
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I was too tired, and rather too refreshed to hit the town that night, but the following day, we were treated to a guided walking tour of Bruges, which was both interesting and a real eye opener. As if that wasn’t enough, we enjoyed an excellent lunch at the city’s De Halve Maan brewery. On way, passed through the Beguinage – a sanctuary, which offered a home to single or widowed womenwho wanted to live in a pious way but outside the walls of a convent or monastery. Of particular interest to fans of prog-rockers Yes, the Beguinage was the location where the promotional film for the track, Everydays was shot. Written by Stephen Stills and featured on "Time and a Word," the group’s second album, the tranquillity and calm and tranquillity of the surroundings, certainly does both the song, and the film itself, justice. Check it out below, to get the feel of the place, and you will see what I mean.
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj-vI4xcD5sB9fUyBfPFvevhy2PwnfyD9L2Gol2NyTHUEtYs0qhmD tqmG9EnyyaVHsRukye0GyhtCV2LH4wiypeVT8udyxwyF4nsBQh fGIkEsZdr1exgGqL5iogtDMr-daNJ1C6poWqG-5YKkI8LhHcJSsB2jar8Yiu_m7YlciiK4Rnu07z2iKyF2ml=w40 0-h300 (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj-vI4xcD5sB9fUyBfPFvevhy2PwnfyD9L2Gol2NyTHUEtYs0qhmD tqmG9EnyyaVHsRukye0GyhtCV2LH4wiypeVT8udyxwyF4nsBQh fGIkEsZdr1exgGqL5iogtDMr-daNJ1C6poWqG-5YKkI8LhHcJSsB2jar8Yiu_m7YlciiK4Rnu07z2iKyF2ml=s46 08) The year finished with a short family trip to Salzburg, Austria – a visit that allowed us to experience the magic of the city’s Christmas Market, whilst allowing a couple of visits to the Bräustübl at Augustinerbräu Kloster Mülln. Not only is this tavern the largest in Austria, it is also one of the finest and most traditional beer halls anywhere in the world! We arrived shortly after the 3pm opening time, and as we descended the steps from the entrance to the corridor where the food kiosks are situated, everything came flooding back, including the most important part - the ritual necessary to obtain a beer.
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Just round the corner from the end of the corridor, there is a serving area, where you help yourself to a stoneware mug (litre or half litre). You then rinse it at the ornate marble fountain before queuing up and paying the person sitting behind a glass screen. You are then given a ticket, which you hand to the man dispensing the beer, in exchange for him filling your mug with beer, from one of the large wooden casks. You then wander off and find a seat in which ever of the three large, cavernous beer halls that takes your fancy, and get stuck into the beer.
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The beer, which is a full-bodied lager, known as Märzenwith an ABV of 4.6%, is brewed all year round, whilst from Novemberthrough to Christmas a stronger Weinachtsbock (Christmas Bock) at 6.5% ABV is produced. This beer was unavailable during my two previous visits, but it was on this occasion, so I just had to try a mug full. It was everything I expected and more, being rich, malty, and strong enough to taste the alcohol. During the hour or so we were there, the hall had really begun to fill up; such is the popularity of the Augustinerbräu Bräustübl (http://www.augustinerbier.at/).
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The absolute highlight of 2015, started with a visit to the Franconian Beer Festival - held in the incomparable setting of the castle moat of Nuremberg’s massive and imposing Imperial Castle. Fränkisches Bierfest, as it is known locally, showcases beers from around 40 of Franconia’sfinest breweries, and in this respect is more like an English beer festival, thanevents such as Munich’s world-famous Oktoberfest, and the lesser known Cannstatter Volksfest which takes place in Stuttgart.
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I was fortunate to have local beer enthusiast, Erlangernick, as my guide, and in his company, I sampled beers from some of the 38 breweries exhibiting at the festival. These included various Helles, Vollbiers, Landbiers, Kellerbiers, plus the odd Dunklesand Pils. All were good; with some served direct from wooden casks. There was a great party atmosphere, and whilst most festival goers were within the 20–30-year age bracket, there was still a good sprinkling of people from other age groups. What was particularly encouraging was the number of female visitors, to the festival.
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The following day, on one of the hottest days of the year, I met up with Nick at Roppelt’s Keller, to the north-west of Forchheim. He had borrowed his wife’s car, and his proposal was to drive us both around a few Kellers in the area. There were a couple he wanted to check out, which were well off the beaten track, and he thought I would like to visit them as well. Being chauffeured around some of the region’s best Bier Kellers, by someone with good local knowledge of them was a chance too good to miss, so after finishing my beer, we set off in his car to do just that!
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Driving through the unspoilt countryside of the Steigerwald, in an open-top car, in search of good local beer, and with some vintage Yes (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=39BZwn9tmTk)playing on the car stereo, made me think, once again that “Life doesn’t get much better than this.”Our first port of call was the tiny village of Aisch, where we sat out in the small shady beer garden opposite the Rittmayer Brauerei & Gasthaus. It was here that I tried Spargel (white Asparagus), for the first time.
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We then visited two Kellers, both perched up on hills overlooking some really attractive rolling countryside. Herrmann Kellerbier from Ampferbach, and Müller Kellerbier from Reundorf, were the beery delights at these two stops; the latter beer being enjoyed in the grounds of the substantial Schmausenkeller, high on a hill. It was a wonderful day out and my grateful thanks are due to Nick for acting as my guide and chauffeur.
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It is no exaggeration to say that this brief snapshot, of some of Franconia’s best beer and drinking establishments, was not only the highpoint of 2015, but also remains as one of my all-time best beer experiences. It was the perfect combination of good company, fine weather, splendid scenery, and some wonderfully rustic places in which to enjoy some truly excellent beer. This then, is the perfect spot to finish my round-up of 2015’s “Year in Beer.” Follow Blog via Email Click to follow this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email.
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