PDA

View Full Version : Shut up about Barclay Perkins - German Pilsner in 2014



Blog Tracker
01-11-2014, 07:42
Visit the Shut up about Barclay Perkins site (http://barclayperkins.blogspot.com/2014/11/german-pilsner-in-2014.html)

For the second part of my modern German beer style series, we'll be looking at Germany favourite: Pilsner.

Though its popularity is definitely on the slide, down from almost 70% of sales in 1996 to 55% in 2010*. Though there's currently no obvious replacement nor even a vague challenger. No other style had a market share of more than 10% in 2010**.

It's often assumed that after Pilsner was first brewed in 1842 that it spread like wildfire across Europe. It didn't. Its progress was much slower and it's only really in the 1880's that it starts to be brewed in any quantities outside Austria. Even then it remained an expensive speciality, mostly drunk by the middle classes. As you can see, there are considerable parallels with Burton Pale Ale.

Pilsner's progress wasn't helped by the fact that the Munich breweries and Dreher from Vienna got in first. Münchner and Viener were the first Lagers to be brewed in most countries. The earliest analyses I have of a German Pilsner is from 1878. Intrguingly, they're all from the Saxon town of Chemnitz and are described as "Bömischer Art" or "Bohemian style".

Only one analysis is from the south, from Munich's Löwenbräu. Which makes sense. They had their own Lager tradition in Bavaria and were more reluctant than brewers from the north in adopting foreign styles. Munich brewers in particular were afraid of debasing their dark Lager brand if they brewed pale beers. Eventually they were unable to resist public demand and in the 1890's all the big Munich breweries introduced one.

Anyway, here's the table:



German Pilsener 1878 - 1893


Year
Brewer
Town
Beer
OG
FG
OG Plato
ABV
App. Atten-uation
Lactic acid %


1900
unknown
unknown
Pilsener Draught
1043.6
1012.3
10.91
4.06
70.94%



1878
Feldschlösschen
Chemnitz
Bömischer Art
1044.3
1007.1
11.07
4.85
83.97%



1878
Böttger's Brauerei
Chemnitz
Bömischer Art
1044.5
1006.2
11.11
5.00
86.07%



1878
Societäts-Brauerei
Chemnitz
Bömischer Art
1044.5
1009.3
11.11
4.58
79.10%



1900
unknown
unknown
Pilsener Bottle
1047.4
1013.9
11.80
4.34
69.66%



1878
Bergschlösschen
Chemnitz
Bömischer Art
1048.5
1012.8
12.07
4.63
73.61%



1878
Schloss Chemnitz
Chemnitz
Bömischer Art
1050.1
1013.1
12.45
4.80
73.85%



1884
Bremer Aktien-Brauerei
Bremen
Pilsener
1050.3
1009.1
12.50
5.38
81.91%
0.145


1884
Union-Brauerei
Hannover
nach Pilsener Art
1050.7
1013.1
12.59
4.89
74.16%
0.136


1891
National-Aktien-Brauerei
Braunschweig
Pilsener
1050.7
1015.2
12.59
4.60
70.02%



1891
Aktien-Brauerei Streitberg
Streitberg
Pilsener
1051.3
1009.9
12.73
5.40
80.70%



1893
Brauerei Hammonia
Hamburg
Pilsener
1052.8
1020.3
13.09
4.20
61.55%



1884
Städtisches Brauerei
Hannover
nach Pilsener Art
1055.2
1014
13.65
5.36
74.64%
0.147


1893
Löwen-Brauerei
Hamburg
Pilsener
1056.1
1015.9
13.85
5.21
71.63%
0.405


1890
Löwenbrauerei
Munich
Pilsener
1057.5
1017.3
14.19
5.21
69.91%
0.405



Average


1049.8
1012.6
12.38
4.83
74.78%
0.248


Sources:


Chemie der menschlichen Nahrungs- und Genussmittel by Joseph König, 1903, pages 1102 - 1156


The 1911 Encyclopedia Brittanica


"Chemie der menschlichen Nahrungs- und Genussmittel" by Joseph König, 1889, pages 806 - 851


"Handbuch der chemischen technologie" by Otto Dammer, Rudolf Kaiser, 1896, pages 696-697



http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AKTsFKiij48/VED8otG1NFI/AAAAAAAAVhw/iQFfy666Aoo/s1600/German_Pilsener_1878_1893.jpg (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AKTsFKiij48/VED8otG1NFI/AAAAAAAAVhw/iQFfy666Aoo/s1600/German_Pilsener_1878_1893.jpg)

For comparison purposes, here are some Pilsners from Pilsen itself:



Bohemian Pilsener 1876 - 1893


Year
Brewer
Town
Beer
OG
FG
OG Plato
ABV
App. Atten-uation
Lactic acid %


1888
Alt-Pilsener
Pilsen
Schenkbier
1039.7
1012.1
9.96
3.58
69.52%



1898
Bürgerliches Brauhaus
Pilsen
Schankbier
1043.0
1011.5
10.76
4.09
73.26%
0.112


1886
Bürgerliches Brauhaus
Pilsen
Pilsener
1043.3
1014.5
10.83
3.73
66.51%



1886
Actien Brauhaus
Pilsen
Pilsener
1043.7
1012.5
10.92
4.04
71.40%



1876
Actien Brauhaus
Pilsen
Lagerbier
1044.9
1011.1
11.21
4.39
75.28%
0.120


1878
unknown
Pilsen
Bömisches Bier
1045.0
1012.0
11.22
4.28
73.30%



1876
Bürgerliches Brauhaus
Pilsen
Lagerbier
1045.0
1013.0
11.23
4.15
71.11%
0.120


1876
Bürgerliches Brauhaus
Pilsen
Pilsener
1046.5
1013.0
11.59
4.35
72.04%
0.160


1886
Bürgerliches Brauhaus
Pilsen
Lagerbier
1047.3
1012.7
11.78
4.49
73.15%



1898
Bürgerliches Brauhaus
Pilsen
Lagerbier
1047.3
1012.6
11.78
4.50
73.36%
0.103


1886
Bürgerliches Brauhaus
Pilsen
Pilsener
1047.8
1015.4
11.89
4.19
67.75%



1890
unknown
Pilsen
Pilsener
1047.8
1013.0
11.91
4.34
72.83%



1897
Unknown
Pilsen
Original-Pilsener
1048.0
1014.3
11.95
4.36
70.21%
0.242


1890
Unknown
Pilsen
Pilsener
1048.1
1013.1
11.97
4.54
72.77%
0.186


1888
Bürgerliches Brauhaus
Pilsen
Pilsener
1048.5
1015.0
12.07
4.34
69.07%



1898
Unknown
Pilsen
Pilsener (sold in Berlin)
1048.5
1014.3
12.07
4.44
70.52%



1870
Actien-Brauhaus
Pilsen
Pilsener
1048.6
1012.8
12.08
4.64
73.64%



1876
Bürgerliches Brauhaus
Pilsen
Lagerbier
1048.6
1012.8
12.09
4.65
73.66%
0.170


1891
Actien Brauhaus
Pilsen
Pilsener (sold in Zürich)
1048.9
1012.0
12.16
4.80
75.46%



1891
Bürgerliches Brauhaus
Pilsen
Pilsener (sold in Zürich)
1049.3
1014.6
12.26
4.50
70.39%



1876
Bürgerliches Brauhaus
Pilsen
Schenkbier
1050.5
1013.8
12.54
4.76
72.67%



1892
Pilsener Export-Brauerei
Pilsen
Pilsener (sold in Bern)
1052.2
1011.1
12.94
5.35
78.74%
0.120


1893
Bürgerliches Brauhaus
Pilsen
Pilsener
1053.2
1013.2
13.18
5.20
75.19%
0.320


1890
Bürgerliches Brauhaus
Pilsen
Pilsener Exportbier
1054.6
1014.5
13.51
5.22
73.53%
0.320



Average


1047.5
1013.1
11.83
4.45
72.31%
0.179


Sources:


Chemie der menschlichen Nahrungs- und Genussmittel by Joseph König, 1903, pages 1102 - 1156


"Chemie der menschlichen Nahrungs- und Genussmittel" by Joseph König, 1889, pages 806 - 851


"Bericht über die Entwickelung der chemischen Industrie während des letzten Jahrzehends" by August Wilhelm von Hofmann, 1877, page 382


"Handbuch der chemischen technologie" by Otto Dammer, Rudolf Kaiser, 1896, pages 696-697



http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aDmZsMlUXTk/VED8vTjfx-I/AAAAAAAAVh4/m2PFlQsMYEw/s1600/Bohemian_Pilsener_1876_1893.jpg (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aDmZsMlUXTk/VED8vTjfx-I/AAAAAAAAVh4/m2PFlQsMYEw/s1600/Bohemian_Pilsener_1876_1893.jpg)

And now modern German Pilsners:



German Pils in 2014


Brewer
Town
Beer
OG
FG
OG Plato
ABV
App. Atten-uation
bitterness


Brauereigasthof Winkler
Berching
Premium Pils
1046.5
1011.2
11.6
4.60
76.04%



Brauerei Windsheimer
Gutenstetten
Pils
1047.8
1011.6
11.9
4.70
75.73%



Privatbrauerei Gessner
Sonneberg
Pilsner
1047.4
1010.5
11.8
4.80
77.83%



Holsten
Hamburg Altona
Pilsener
1044.9
1008
11.2
4.80
82.17%



Einbecker Brauhaus
Einbeck
Premium Pilsener
1044.9
1008
11.2
4.80
82.17%



Bürgerbräu Hersbruck
Hersbruck
Edel-Pils
1046.1
1009.2
11.5
4.80
80.05%



Zum Löwenbräu Flair Hotel
Adelsdorf
Edel-Pilsner
1049.1
1011.4
12.2
4.90
76.76%



Kulmbacher Brauerei
Kulmbach
Kulmbacher Edelherb
1045.3
1007.7
11.3
4.90
82.99%



Arnsteiner Brauerei
Seinsheim
Pils
1045.7
1008.1
11.4
4.90
82.27%



Brauhaus Leikeim
Altenkunstadt
Premium
1045.7
1008.1
11.4
4.90
82.27%



Einbecker Brauhaus
Einbeck
Brauherren Pils
1045.7
1008.1
11.4
4.90
82.27%



Privatbrauerei Gessner
Sonneberg
Premium Pils
1047.8
1010.2
11.9
4.90
78.76%



Braugasthof Grosch
Rödental
Grosch Prinz Albert Pils
1046.1
1008.5
11.5
4.90
81.57%



Paulaner
Munich
Premium Pils
1046.1
1008.5
11.5
4.90
81.57%



Brauerei Gasthof Wiethaler
Lauf an der Pegnitz
Neunhofer Pils



4.90




Brauerei Gasthof Wiethaler
Lauf an der Pegnitz
Neunhofer Edelpils



4.90




Kulmbacher Brauerei
Kulmbach
EKU Pils
1046.5
1008.9
11.6
4.90
80.87%



Brauerei Kanone Löhr
Schnaittach
Pils
1046.5
1008.9
11.6
4.90
80.87%



Brauerei Hermann Sigwart
Weißenburg
Premium Pils
1046.5
1008.9
11.6
4.90
80.87%



Braugold
Erfurt
Riebeck Premium Pilsener
1046.5
1008.9
11.6
4.90
80.87%



Kulmbacher Brauerei
Kulmbach
Mönchshof Original Pils
1046.5
1008.9
11.6
4.90
80.87%



Schübel Bräu
Stadtsteinach
Pils
1047.0
1009.3
11.7
4.90
80.19%



Brauerei Hofmann
Pahres
Hopfengold-Pilsener
1047.4
1009.7
11.8
4.90
79.52%



Ammerndorfer Bier Dorn Bräu
Ammerndorf
Pils
1047.4
1009.7
11.8
4.90
79.52%



Püls-bräu
Stadtsteinach
Weismainer Premium
1050.3
1011.9
12.5
5.00
76.35%



Göller
Zeil am Main
Original
1047.4
1009
11.8
5.00
81.00%



Göller
Zeil am Main
Pilsner
1047.4
1009
11.8
5.00
81.00%



Püls-bräu
Stadtsteinach
Weismainer Krone Pils
1047.4
1009
11.8
5.00
81.00%



Gasthof Gundel
Kammerstein
Pils
1047.4
1009
11.8
5.00
81.00%



Brauerei Hofmann
Pahres
Pils 0.33
1047.8
1009.4
11.9
5.00
80.33%



Wolf
Zeil am Main
Land Pils
1046.1
1007.8
11.5
5.00
83.19%



Privatbrauerei Kesselring
Marktsteft
Premium Pils
1048.2
1009.8
12.0
5.00
79.67%



Kitzmann-Bräu
Erlangen
Edelpils
1048.2
1009.8
12.0
5.00
79.67%



Strauß Karl Brauerei
Treuchtlingen
Wettelsheimer Wet
1051.6
1013.1
12.8
5.00
74.61%



Strauß Karl Brauerei
Treuchtlingen
Wettelsheimer Pils
1051.6
1013.1
12.8
5.00
74.61%



Holsten
Hamburg Altona
Extra Herb
1044.9
1006.5
11.2
5.00
85.51%



Pyraser Landbrauerei
Thalmässing
Gutsherrn Pils
1047.4
1008.3
11.8
5.10
82.58%



Weihenstephan
Freising
Pilsner
1047.4
1008.3
11.8
5.10
82.58%



Kulmbacher Brauerei
Kulmbach
Pilsner
1047.4
1008.3
11.8
5.10
82.58%



Distelhäuser
Tauberbischofsheim
Pils
1050.3
1011.1
12.5
5.10
77.94%
22


Püls-bräu
Stadtsteinach
Weismainer HopfenGold
1047.8
1008.6
11.9
5.11
82.01%



Göller
Zeil am Main
Premium Pilsner
1049.9
1010
12.4
5.20
79.96%
33 - 34


Braugold
Erfurt
Erfurter Angerbräu Premium Pils
1050.3
1010.4
12.5
5.20
79.33%



Forschungsbrauerei
Munich
Pilsissimus Exportbier
1052.4
1009.5
13.0
5.60
81.88%



Average


1047.5
1009.4
11.8
5.0
80.31%
22.0


Sources:


Brewery websites.



http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MJNo6woIr8U/VED83Klq5rI/AAAAAAAAViA/9WzPP9uYp_w/s1600/German_Pils_in_2014.jpg (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MJNo6woIr8U/VED83Klq5rI/AAAAAAAAViA/9WzPP9uYp_w/s1600/German_Pils_in_2014.jpg)

What I find most remarkable is how similar all the sets are to one another. The average gravity of the 19th-century Czech and modern German examples is identical. Though the average gravity of the 19th-century German samples is half a degree Plato higher. Unsurprisingly, there's one big difference: the level of attenuation. It's 80% in the modern examples and below 75% in the older examples. For the 19h century, anything over 70% attenuation is quite high. Whereas in most modern German Lagers it's over 80%.

The modern Pilsners show less variation than the older ones. The gravity range is 9.96 to 13.51º Plato (3.55º difference) for 19th-century Czech Pilsners, 10.91 to 14.19º Plato (4.28º difference) in old German ones, 11.20 to 13.00º Plato (2.8º difference) in modern German ones. 23 of the 42 modern examples are 0.2º Plato either side of the average of 11.8º Plato (11.4º to 12º Plato) and 31 are 0.4º Plato either side of the average. That's 55% and 74%, respectively.

It's a shame that I've so few EBU bitterness values. They aren't enough to do anything sensible with.

Time for one final table. Of a modern phenomenon: Leicht Pils.



German Leicht Pils in 2014


Brewer
Town
Beer
OG
FG
OG Plato
ABV
App. Atten-uation
bitterness


Zum Löwenbräu Flair Hotel
Adelsdorf
Leichtes
1030.8
1009.2
7.8
2.80
70.15%



Distelhäuser
Tauberbischofsheim
Leichtes
1030.8
1008.4
7.8
2.90
72.75%
18


Ammerndorfer Bier Dorn Bräu
Ammerndorf
Leicht
1030.8
1008.4
7.8
2.90
72.75%



Püls-bräu
Stadtsteinach
Weismainer Feinherb
1031.2
1008.8
7.9
2.90
71.82%



Gasthof Gundel
Kammerstein
Nimm's leicht
1031.2
1008.8
7.9
2.90
71.82%



Pyraser Landbrauerei
Thalmässing
Das leichte Pyraser
1038.2
1009.7
9.6
3.70
74.61%



Average


1032.2
1008.9
8.1
3.0
72.32%
18.0


Sources:


Brewery websites.



http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-v_MH9wQeJfM/VED88g72xZI/AAAAAAAAViI/wBUlOGDXGlY/s1600/German_Leicht_Pils_in_2014.jpg (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-v_MH9wQeJfM/VED88g72xZI/AAAAAAAAViI/wBUlOGDXGlY/s1600/German_Leicht_Pils_in_2014.jpg)

They're all very similar to each other except the Pyraser, which looks like an Ordinary Bitter. The others all fall into the old Schankbier category, being under 8º Plato. While the Pyraser is slap in the middle of the old "forbidden zone" of 8º - 11º Plato. It's remarkable how few beers are brewed even now at the old forbidden gravities. I guess old habits die hard.

Hefeweizen next, I think.





* Brauwelt Brevier 2003 and Deutscher Brauer-Bund, Bonn.
** Deutscher Brauer-Bund, Bonn.

More... (http://barclayperkins.blogspot.com/2014/11/german-pilsner-in-2014.html)